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Qnionnoc 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

ywiBSTIR,  N  Y    i4sao 

(716)  872-4503 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  canadien  de  microreproductions  historlques 


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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  G 
to  th< 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
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the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


0 


D 


a 
□ 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/cu  pellicul^e 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  tit 


itre  de  couverture  manque 


Colourec^  maps/ 

Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli*  avec  d'autret  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'omlire  ou  de  la 
distorsion  la  long  da  la  marga  intdrieura 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  dune  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texta, 
mais.  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  iti  filmaes. 


L'tnstitut  a  microfilme  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  ete  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

I      I    Pages  damaged/ 


n 

n 


\j 


D 
D 


D 


Pages  endommagees 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurees  et/ou  pellicul^es 


Pages  dittcoloured.  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolorees,  tachetaes  ou  piquees 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachees 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualite  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
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p~~I    Only  edition  available/ 


Seule  Edition  disponibia 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  it6  filmies  h  nouveau  de  facon  a 
obtanir  la  meilleure  image  possible 


Thai 
possi 
of  th( 
filmii 


Origi 
begir 
tha  li 
sion, 
othai 
first  I 
sion, 
or  illi 


Thai 
shall 
TINU 
whic 

Mapi 
diffai 
antiri 
bagii 
right 
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n 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires; 


This  item  is  filmed  at  tha  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filma  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessout. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


J 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


u 

32  X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

University  of  British  Columbia  Library 


L'exempiaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  it  ia 
g#n6rosit6  de: 

University  of  British  Columbia  Library 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduitt^s  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  netteti  de  rexemplaire  filmi,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimis  sont  filmis  en  commen9ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  termincnt  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  ccmporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  rocorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "I,  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  —^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  pouvent  Atre 
film6s  A  des  taux  da  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  filmi  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supirieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mithode. 


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Goat  Iflland  Bridge,"     8  Park  Place. 
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»  Churches, 


NIAGARA — TABLE   ROCK. 


NIAGARA   SUSPENSION   BRIDGE. 


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MAP  OF  GO  A  T  ISLAND. 


TUNIS' 


ILLUSTRATED  GUIDE 


TO 


NIAGARA. 


REVISED  AND  PUBLISHED  BY  H.  T.  ALLEN, 


■«♦*- 


BUFFALO: 
THE   COURIER  COMPANY,  PRINTERS. 

1879- 


f" 

; 

\ 

. 

1 

• 

1     a 

1    i 

1 

GUIDE  TO  NIAGARA. 


»  »  » 


NIAGARA  RIVER. 


•<^fe--M-i» 


IF  the  river  itself  much  might  be  written,  pre- 
senting as  it  does  to  the  historian,  the  geologist 
and  the  pleasure-seeker,  an  inexhaustible  fund 
*Tt  of  historical  facts  and  incidents;  an  open  book 
for  geological  research,  and  a  series  of  views  which  for 
beauty  and  grandeur  are  unexcelled  by  any  on  the 
American  Continent.  From  the  source  of  the  river  at 
Buffalo,  to  Schlosser,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  it  has  a 
fall  of  twenty  feet,  or  an  average  of  a  foot  to  the  mile. 
Grand  Island,  twelve  miles  long  and  eight  miles  wide, 
lies  directly  in  the  center  of  the  river,  the  distance  from 
Buffalo  to  the  head  of  the  island,  and  from  the  falls  to 
the  foot  of  the  island,  being  the  same.  The  waters  thus 
divided  flow  on,  a  grand  and  mighty  river  on  either  side, 
until  it  becomes  again  united  opposite  Gill  Creek,  from 
which  point  it  assumes  the  majesty  of  an  overwhelming 
torrent,  falling  from  Schlosser  to  the  brink  of  the  preci- 
pice, a  distance  of  <>o\.\\.  three  miles,  fifty-three  feet,  in 
its  onward  course  falling  over  numerous  little  declivities, 
forming  as  many  pleasing  little  cascades,  and  anon 
sweeping  forward  in  fierce  and  turbulent  rapids,  as  if 
madly  eager  to  make   the  awful  leap  into  the  seething 


ILLUSTRATED      GUIDE. 


4 


cauldron  below.  The  river,  as  above  by  Grand  Island, 
is  here  again  divided  by  Goat  or  Iris  Island,  which 
division  causes  the  formation  of  the  two  great  cataracts, 
the  American  and  Horseshoe  Falls;  again  uniting  at  the 
foot  of  the  island,  after  the  awful  plunge  of  one  hundred 
and  sixty-four  feet,  it  sends  up  its  bridal  wreath  of  spray 
as  if  in  token  of  a  grand  and  harmonious  reunion,  often- 
times ascending  to  the  height  of  a  mile,  appearing  from 
a  distance  like  the  smoke  of  an  immense  conflagration, 
designating  to  the  approaching  tourist  the  location  of 
this  vast  amphitheatre  of  struggling  cataracts.  From  the 
foot  of  Goat  Island  to  Lewiston,  seven  miles  below,  the 
river  has  a  further  fall  of  ninety-eight  feet,  from  which 
point  it  flows  grandly  and  serenely  onward  until  its 
waters  mingle  with  the  unbroken  swell  of  Lake  Ontario. 

The  Historical  associations  that  cluster  around  this 
wonderful  river  are  innumerable.  From  the  early  war 
whoop  of  tribal  contention  through  the  long  French  and 
English  wars  to  the  closing  of  our  own  war  of  1812-15, 
its  borders  have  been  the  arena  for  many  sanguinary  con- 
flicts, innumerable  deeds  of  valor  and  strategy,  through 
the  long  pioneer  struggle  for  civilized  existence,  till  the 
broad  mantle  of  peace  and  Christian  enlightenment  settled 
smilingly  down  upon  its  borders,  never  again  to  be  broken 
by  the  wild  alarm  of  savage  or  civilized  warfare. 

The  faces  of  the  cliffs  below  the  falls  disclose  an 
open  page  for  the  study  of  geology.  The  different 
strata  underlying  one  another  are  well  defined,  and 
their  variations  at  different  points  of  the  river  present 
an  interesting  study,  especially  as  this  wonderful  gorge 
lies  directly  in  the  center  of  the  distinctive  geological 


i  Island, 
I,   which 
ataracts, 
Jg  at  the 
hundred 
of  spray 
n,  often- 
ing  from 
agration, 
ation   of 
"rom  the 
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until   its 
)ntario. 
ind   this 
arly  war 
mch  and 
1812-15, 
lary  con- 
through 
,  till  the 
It  settled 
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:lose  an 
different 
ed,  and 
present 
ul  gorge 
jological 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE.  5 

formation  known  as  the  "Niagara  Limestone  bed,"  the 
study  of  which  has  not  been  deemed  unworthy  by  such 
minds  as  Lyell,  Tyndall,  Marsh  and  others. 

The  varied  and  delightful  scenery  of  Niagara  is  fully 
described  in  the  following  pages  of  this  Guide,  it  being 
the  purpose  of  the  writer  to  follow  and  describe  each 
point  of  interest  in  rotation,  as  it  would  most  naturally 
follow  its  predecessor  in  a  complete  tour  of  all  the 
interesting  points. 

The  map  accompanying  this  work  will  be  of  great 
service  to  the  Tourist,  as  it  points  out  the  relative 
position  of  the  different  points  of  interest. 

GO  A  T  ISLAND  BRIDGE. 

The  old  wooden  bridge  which  had  stood  since  1818 
was  replaced  by  this  costly  and  beautiful  structure, 
in  the  summer  of  1856.  The  foundations  consist  of 
massive  oak  timber  cribs,  filled  with  stone  and  covered 
with  plates  of  iron.  The  superstructure  is  of  iron, 
and  consists  of  four  arches  of  ninety  feet  span  each, 
supported  between  the  abutments  of  these  piers.  The 
whole  length  of  the  bridge  is,  therefore,  three  hundred 
and  sixty  feet,  and  ijs  whole  width  is  twenty-seven 
feet.  Of  this  width  a  double  carriageway  occupies 
sixteen  and  a  half  feet,  and  two  footways,  one  on 
either  side  of  the  carriageway,  occupy,  each,  five  and 
a  quarter  additional  feet. 


f 


5 


tjs,^ 


I 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


No  point  commands  so  fine  a  view  of  the  rapids  as 
this  bridge.  The  delicate  tints  of  the  water  are  here, 
especially,  very  attractive.  The  waves  are  breaking  con- 
stantly into  new  forms,  in  each  successive  change  catch- 
ing the  sunlight  under  new  conditions,  and  throwing  it 
back  in  some  novel  transfusion  of  hues. 

It  was  while  the  old  bridge  was  repairing,  in  the 
summer  of  1839,  that  one  of  the  workmen,  a  Mr.  Cha- 
pin,  was  accidentally  thrown  from  the  frame-work  into 
the  river,  and  carried  by  the  current  to  the  first  of  the 
two  smallest  islands  below,  since  called,  from  this  cir- 
cumstance, Chapin  Island.  He  was  thence  rescued 
by  the  strong  nerve  and  skillful  hand  of  Mr.  Joel  R. 
Robinson,  a  man  associated  with  many  a  gallant  rescue 
from  these  waters. 

The  fall  of  the  river's  bed,  from  the  head  of  the 
rapids  to  the  verge  of  the  precipice,  is  58  feet.  This 
gradual  descent,  by  confusing  the  lines  of  vision  as  you 
gaze  up  the  river,  gives  the  farthest  crest  of  the  rapids  a 
vague  and  skyish  cast,  suggestive  of  the  Infinite ;  so  that, 
turning  from  this  to  where  the  river  disappears  in  its 
final  leap,  you  seem  to  have  realized  in  space  the  simili- 
tudes of  life 


" Standing  'twixt  two  eternities." 

Crossing  the  bridge,  the  first  island  you  reach  is  Bath 
Island.  Looking  up  the  Rapids,  that  small  sentimental 
looking  island  on  your  left,  is  called  "Lovers'  Retreat;" 
the  island  just  beyond  that,  Brig  Island.  That  large 
building  on  your  right  is  a  paper-mill,  said  to  be  the 
largest  in  the  State.  Passing  from  Bath  Island  over  a 
short  bridge,  you  stand  on 


.  / 


8 


11' 


V 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


GO  A  T  ISLAND. 


This,  though  not  the  largest,  is  by  far  the  most  beau- 
tiful island  in  the  Niagara.  Long  before  it  was  bridged 
to  the  American  shore,  it  was  visited  from  time  to  time 
by  the  few  to  whom  its  attractions  were  of  more  potent 
consideration  than  the  peril  of  reaching  it.  The  late 
Judge  Porter,  who  visited  it  in  1805,  remembered  having 
seen  the  names  of  strangers  cut  into  the  bark  of  a  beech 
near  Horseshoe  Fall,  with  the  subjoined  dates  of  1771, 
1772  and  1779. 

The  island  is  now  owned  by  the  Porter  family,  to  whom 
it  was  ceded  by  the  State  of  New  York  in  18 18.  It  de- 
rived its  name  from  the  circumstance  of  a  Mr.  Stedman 
having  placed  some  goats  on  it  to  pasture.  This  was  in 
1770.  The  area  of  the  island  is  sixty-one  and  a  half 
acres ;  its  circumference  about  one  mile. 

Three  paths  branch  off  from  the  road  by  which  you 
ascend  the  bank,  the  middle  one  dividing  the  island  into 
two  nearly  equal  parts,  the  left  leading  to  the  head  of  the 
island,  and  the  right  (the  one  usually  taken)  to  the  Amer- 
ican Fall.  Following  this  path  you  are  conducted 
through  a  colonnade  of  forest  trees,  with  the  Rapids  at 
your  right,  over  a  space  of  eighty  rods  to  the  north- 
western point  of  the  island,  called,  by  vhat  process  of 
association  no  mortal  can  tell, 

HOG'S  BACK, 

It  was  while  v*alking  directly  under  this  point  that  the 
lamented  Dr.  Hungerford,  of  West  Troy,  N.  Y.,  was 
killed  in  the  spring  of  1839,  by  the  crumbling  of  a  por- 
tion of  the  rock  from  above.  This  is  the  only  accident 
that  has  ever  occurred  at  the  Falls  by  the  falling  of 
rock. 


\P, 


w>  ' 


;t  beau- 
bridged 
to  time 
'  potent 
'he  late 
having 
a  beech 
>f  1771, 

0  whom 

It  de- 

tedman 

was  in 

a  half 

ch  you 
nd  into 
.  of  the 

Amer- 
ducted 
pids  at 

north- 
:ess  of 


lat  the 
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a  por- 
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ling  of 


AMERICAN  FALLS  FROM  CO  A  T  ISLAND. 


I 


10 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


J     ; 


■M 


.  j„ 


Passing  by  a  narrow  foot-path  down  the  bank,  and 
crossing  the  short  bridge  at  your  right,  you  stand  upon  a 
lovely  spot  called 

LUNA  ISLAND. 

On  the  northern  edge  of  this  island,  a  few  feet  above  the 
precipice,  is  a  spot  of  mournful  memory.  On  June  21, 
1849,  the  family  of  Mr.  Deforest,  of  Buffalo,  together 
with  Mr.  Charles  Addington,  their  friend,  were  viewing 
the  scenery  from  this  point.  The  party,  in  fine  spirits, 
were  about  leaving  the  island,  when  Mr.  Addington  ad- 
vanced playfully  to  Miss  Annetta,  the  little  daughter  of 
Mrs.  Deforest,  saying,  "  I  am  going  to  throw  you  in,"  at 
the  same  time  lifting  her  lightly  over  the  edge  of  the 
water.  With  a  sudden  impulse  of  fear  the  startled  child 
flung  herself  from  his  hands,  and  struck  the  wild  current 
of  the  river.  With  a  shriek,  the  young  man  sprang  to 
'ler  recovery,  but  before  the  stricken  group  on  shore  had 
time  to  speak  or  move,  they  had  passed  over  the  preci- 
pice. The  crushed  remains  of  the  lately  blooming  and 
buoyant  child  were  found  in  the  afternoon  of  the  same 
day  in  the  Cave  of  the  Winds ;  and  a  few  days  afterward, 
the  body  of  the  gallant  but  fated  young  Addington  was 
likewise  recovered  and  committed  with  many  tears  to 
the  village  cemetery.  This  is,  perhaps,  the  most  touch- 
ing casualty  that  has  ever  occurred  at  the  Falls. 

Leaving  Luna  Island,  pause  for  a  moment  at  the  foot 
of  the  path  before  you  ascend,  while  we  point  you  out  an 
appearance  which  certain  imaginative  persons  have  been 
pleased  to  call  the 

THE    THREE  PROFILES. 

These  so-called  profiles  are  formed  by  the  inequality 
of  projection  in  that  portion  of  the  precipice  which  is 


ink,  and 
d  upon  a 


ibove  the 
June  21, 
together 
viewing 
le  spirits, 
gton  ad- 
ughter  of 
)u  in,"  at 
^e  of  the 
led  child 
d  current 
sprang  to 
bhcre  had 
he  preci- 
Tiing  and 
the  same 
ifterward, 
igton  was 
'  tears  to 
St  touch- 

:  the  foot 
3u  out  an 
ave  been 


ILLUST 


TED      ^  U  I  D  „. 


II 


nequality 
which  is 


formed  by  the  westerr     ide  of  Luna  Island.     The  rock 
is  adjacent  to  and  almost  under  the  American  Fall. 

THE  CENTER  FALL. 
This  is  that  portion  of  the  American  Fall  -which  is 
cut  off  by  Luna  Island.  Having  now  ascended  the 
bank,  and  rested  from  your  fatigue,  pass  on  a  few  rods 
to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds'  dressing  rooms  and  Biddle's 
Stairs. 

BIDDLE'S  STAIRS. 

These  Stairs  take  their  name  from  the  well-kown  Pres- 
ident of  the  United  States  Bank,  Nicholas  Biddle,  Esq., 
at  whose  expense  they  were  erected  in  1829. 

They  are  secured  to  the  solid  rock  by  ponderous  iron 
bolts,  and  are  said  to  be  perfectly  safe.  The  perpendic- 
ular height  of  the  bank  at  this  place  is  185  feet;  the 
staircase  itself  being  eighty  feet  high,  and  consisting  of 
ninety  steps.  From  the  stairs  to  the  river  there  is  a  rude 
pathway;  but  it  is  seldom  traversed,  except  for  the  pur- 
pose of  angling,  an  art  which,  at  the  right  time  of  the 
year,  ici  here  practiced  with  the  happiest  success. 

In  1829,  shortly  after  the  completion  of  the  stairs,  the 
eccentric  Sam  Patch,  of  saltatory  memory,  made  his 
famous  leap  from  a  scaffolding  ninety-six  feet  high, 
erected  in  the  water  at  a  point  between  this  and  the 
Center  Fall 

From  the  foot  of  Biddle's  Stairs,  two  paths  lead  in 
opposite  directions,  one  toward  the  Canada,  and  the 
other  toward  the  American  Fall.  The  former  has  been 
obstructed  by  slides  from  above,  and  is  not,  perhaps, 
altogether  safe.  Taking  the  latter,  a  few  minutes'  walk 
brings  you  to  the  celebrated  Cave  of  the  Winds.  If  you 
have  provided  dresses,  you  here  enter  by  a  secure  stairway. 


0-  »IS^, 


CA  VE  OF  THE  WINDS. 


L 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


13 


The  formation  of  this  cave  was  of  easy  process.  The 
gradual  wearing  away  by  the  water  of  the  shaly  substra- 
tum of  the  precipice  has  left  the  Hmestone  rock  above 
projecting  at  least  thirty  feet  beyond  the  base,  thus  form- 
ing an  open  cave,  over  which  falls  in  deep  folds  of  azure 
the  magnificent  curtain  of  the  Center  Fall.  The  com- 
pression of  the  atmosphere  by  the  falling  water  is  here 
so  great  that  the  cave  is  rendered  as  stormy  and  turbu- 
lent as  that  of  old  ^olus  himself,  from  whose  classical 
majesty,  indeed,  it  derived  its  first  name — 


BOLUS'S  CAVE. 

Gazing  now  below  you  at  that  delicate  textured  rain- 
bow trembling  in  the  angry  surge,  you  will  hardly  fail  to 
remember  Byron's  vivid  description  of  the  bow  at  the 
cascade  of  Vtlino : 

"  From  side  to  side,  beneath  the  glittering  morn, 
An  Iris  sits,  amidst  the  infernal  surge. 
Like  hope  upon  a  death-bed,  and,  unworn 
Its  steely  dyes,  while  all  around  is  torn 
By  the  distracted  waters,  bears  serene 
Its  brilliant  hues  with  cjI  their  beams  unshorn  ; 
Resembling,  'mid  the  torture  of  the  scene. 
Love  watching  madness  with  unalterable  mien," 

Ascending  Biddle's  Stairs,  your  course  conducts  you  to 
the  right,  along  the  verge  of  the  precipice.  Observe  how 
the  bank  is  gradually  wearing  away,  by  slides  of  land 
and  crumbling  of  rocks  from  its  side.  It  was  near  these 
stairs  that  the  crash  occurred  in  1843.  The  detached 
rock  now  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  staircase. 

By  the  time  you  have  reached  the  other  side  of  the 
island    you   will    be    prepared   to   duly   appreciate    the 


14 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE. 


\M\ 


? 


fin 


IJ 


1    ' 


estimate  of  its  width,  with  which  Dr.  Goldsmith  edified 
the  ingenuous  youth  of  his  time.  The  width  of  the 
island  from  fall  to  fall  is  seventy-five  rods.  You  have 
by  this  time  reached  the  southwestern  corner  of  the 
island.  Be  seated  in  the  arbor  near  by,  if  you  please, 
and  we  will  pay  you  the  highest  possible  compliment  to 
yourself,  while  gracefully  acknowledging  our  own  im- 
pressions of  the  scene,  by — silence.  There  are  many 
descriptions  of  the  Falls;  but  they  are  all  too  lucklessly 
true  to  the  form  of  their  subject — oceans  of  sublimity 
falling  into  perilous  depths  of  pathos.  It  may,  however, 
be  remarked  in  passing  that,  take  whatever  point  of 
view  we  may,  we  find  Nature  here  expressing  herself 
in  bold  and  beautiful  antitheses;  the  Titanic  strength 
and  majesty  of  the  cataract,  and  the  soft  grovy  tendrils 
that  bathe  their  verdure  in  its  spray — the  wild,  distracted, 
maniac  surge,  and  delicate  rainbow  shivering  in  its 
embrace — the  whirlwind  roar  of  falling  floods,  and  the 
braided  lullaby  of  lapsing  streams.  Niagara  is  all 
antitheses,  all  "contrasted  charms!"  This  is  commonly 
called  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  a  name  derived  from  the 
shape  that  the  curve  formerly  assumed.  The  gradual 
wearing  away  from  beneath,  and  falling  down  from 
above  of  the  rocks,  has  changed  the  figure  from  that  of 
a  horseshoe  to  something  now  more  nearly  resembling 
that  of  a  right  angle. 

The  width  of  this  fall  is  about  one  hundred  and  forty- 
four  rods ;  its  height,  one  hundred  and  fifty-eight  feet. 
The  dej)th  of  the  water  in  the  center,  or  deepest  part  of 
the  stream,  is  estimated  at  twenty  feet,  and  this  was 
proven  by  the  fact  of  the  ship  Detroit,  which  drew 
eighteen  feet,  passing  over  without  touching. 


II 


th  edified 
th  of  the 
You  have 
tr  of  the 
Du  please, 
)liment  to 
own  im- 
are  many 
lucklessly 
sublimity 
,  however, 

point  of 
ig   herself 

strength 
•y  tendrils 
distracted, 
ig  in  its 
>,  and  the 
ra  is  all 
:ommonly 
from  the 
e  gradual 
)wn  from 
m  that  of 
esembling 

md  forty- 
ight  feet. 
St  part  of 
this  was 
ich   drew 


g 


til 


b: 


>i 


t>5 


i6 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


TERRAPIN  BRIDGE. 


This  Bridge  is  subject  to  the  action  of  the  spray;  a 
little  care  should  therefore  be  taken  in  crossing  it.  In 
the  winter  of  1852,  a  gentleman  from  West  Troy,  N.  Y., 
while  crossing  to  the  tower,  fell  into  the  current,  and  was 
carried  to  the  verge  of  the  fall,  where  he  lodged  between 
two  rocks.  He  was  discovered  by  two  of  the  citizens, 
who  rescued  him  by  throwing  out  lines  which  he  fastened 
around  his  body.  He  remained  speechless  for  several 
hours  after  being  taken  to  his  hotel. 

From  this  point  you  get  the  best  view  of  the  shape 
of  the  fall,  and  the  clearest  idea  of  how  it  has  been 
modified  by  the  action  of  the  water.  This  action  has 
been  especially  violent  during  the  last  few  years.  On 
Sunday,  February  i,  1852,  a  portion  of  the  precipice, 
stretching  from  the  edge  of  the  island  toward  the  tower, 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  long  and  sixty 
feet  wide,  and  reaching  from  near  the  foot  to  the  bottom 
of  the  fall,  fell  with  a  crash  of  thunder.  The  next  day 
another,  a  triangular  piece,  with  a  base  of  about  forty 
feet,  broke  off  just  below  the  tower.  Between  the  two 
portions  that  had  thus  fallen  off,  stood  a  rectangular 
projection  about  thirty  feet  long  and  fifteen  feet  wide, 
extending  from  the  top  to  the  bottom  of  the  precipice. 
This  immense  mass  became  loosened  from  the  main 
body  of  the  rock  and  settled  perpendicularly  about 
eight  feet,  where  it  now  stands,  an  enormous  column 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high  by  the  dimensions 
named  above. 

The  line  of  division  between  the  government  of  the 
United  States  and  that  of  Canada  is  in  the  deepest  part 

of  the   ch-inr**!    f^^   ^hroU"^h   the   .Tnn-nl.ir   nnrf   n^   tho   fnll 


)ray ;  a 
it.  In 
,  N.  Y., 
ind  was 
)et\veen 
;itizens, 
astened 
several 

;  shape 
s  been 
ion  has 
rs.  On 
ecipice, 
2  tower, 
.d  sixty 
bottom 
2xt  day 
Jt  forty 
the  two 
angular 
;t  wide, 
ecipice. 
e  main 
'  about 
column 
ensions 

of  the 
est  part 
lif-  f.ill 


to 

bo 


i 


■( 


f 


i8 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


Leaving  the  Horseshoe  fall  and  wending  our  way 
along  the  bank  of  the  river  to  the  east,  the  next  point 
of  interest  is  the  Three  Sister  Islands,  connected  by 
three  beautiful  bridges.  These  costly  and  substantial 
structures,  built  over  the  three  channels  which  separate 
the  Three  Sisters  from  each  other  and  Irom  Goat  Island, 
present  new  and  grand  views  of  the  rapids  and 
falls,  unequalled  from  any  oth  ^r  point.  These  three 
bridges  combine  both  strength  and  beauty.  They  are 
alike,  being  slightly  oval,  that  is  higher  in  the  middle 
than  at  either  end,  thus  adding  to  their  strength.  The 
ends  are  fastened  into  the  solid  rock.  Two  rods,  two 
inches  in  diameter,  pass  under  each  bridge  and  are 
also  fastened  in  the  rocks  at  either  end.  The  peculiar 
construction  of  the  railing  adds  much  to  their  strength 
and  beauty.  Pass  over  each  bridge  slowly,  and  care- 
fully view  the  rapids  and  cascades — views  never  before 
made  apparent  to  the  eye.  Here  Joel  R.  Robinson,  in 
1841,  saved  a  Mr.  Allen's  life,  and  in  1854  he  passed  with 
his  son  over  the  rapids.  From  the  head  of  the  third 
Sister  may  be  seen  one  continuous  cascade  for  all, 
extending  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  from  Goat  Island 
across  to  the  Canada  shore,  varying  from  ten  to  twenty 
feet  in  height  From  this  miniature  Niagara  rises  a 
spray  similar  to  that  of  the  great  Falls.  The  rapids 
here  are  very  fine,  surpassing  in  volume  the  rapids 
under  Goat  Island  bridge,  and  much  more  beautiful  in 
appearance. 

The  pleasure  of  passing  over  these  wild  and  romantic 
spots  fully  repays  the  visitor  for  ihe  trip,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  many  other  beautiful  resorts  that  abound  at 
Niagara,  both  winter  and  summer.  A  few  rods  further 
on,  and  you  have  reached  the 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


19 


HEAD  OF  GOA  T  ISLAND, 

This  point  commands  a  comprehensive  view  in  outline 
of  the  river  and  its  environs  for  some  miles  of  its  course. 
Looking  up  the  right  bank,  you  behold,  at  a  distance 
of  about  a  mile,  a  small,  white  farm  house,  with  a  chim- 
ney of  most  disproportionate  size.  This  is  a  site  of  old 
Fort  Schlosser,  a  name  celebrated  in  border  story.  That 
towering  chimney  was  taken  entire  from  the  mess-house 
attached  to  the  establishment.  This  fort  was  built  at  an 
early  date  by  the  French,  and  called  by  them  Little  Fort, 
At  the  end  of  the  Anglo-French  war  in  America  it  was 
ceded  to  the  English,  and  was  first  occupied  as  a  military 
post  by  Captain  Schlosser,  from  whom  it  derived  its 
second  name.  One  mile  above  Schlosser  is  Schlosser 
Landing.  In  a  diagonal  direction  from  this  point,  and 
near  the  Canada  shore,  is 

NAVY  ISLAND. 
This  island  has  an  area  of  304  acres,  and  belongs  to 
the  realm  of  Her  Britannic  Majesty.  It  is  closely  asso- 
ciated with  Schlosser  by  an  affair  which,  as  it  has  not  yet 
found  its  way  into  the  pages  of  Bancroft  or  Hildreth,  we 
will  briefly  relate:  In  1837,  a  rebellion  was  stirred  up 
against  the  authorities  of  Canada,  by  some  disaffected 
"Radicals,"  under  the  leadership  of  VVm.  Lyon  McKenzie 
and  some  others;  but.  Her  Majesty's  subjects  not  caring 
to  side  with  the  *'  Rebels "  in  any  great  number,  the 
movement  was  speedily  put  down.  But  not  so  the  leaders. 
They — /.  e.  McKenzie,  Gen.  Sutherland,  and  five  and  six 
and  twenty  others — at  the  suggestion  of  Dr.  Chapin  of 
Buffalo,  unfurled  the  standard  of  rebellion  over  this 
island,  desiijnins:  to  make  it  a  rendezvous  foi-  the  restless 


20 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


'■« 


* 


•mi 


ill 


patriots  of  both  sides  of  the  river,  until  sufficient  strength 
should  be  gained  to  renew  the  attack.  Matters  were 
going  on  pleasantly — the  "  Patriots  "  being  daily  edified 
by  accessions  to  their  strength,  though  greatly  demoral- 
ized by  a  barrel  of  whiskey  that  found  its  way  to  their 
panting  hearts — when  the  difficulty  of  "transporting 
volunteers  and  supplies  to  their  place  of  destination," 
and  "  the  number  of  persons,  from  motives  of  business 
or  curiosity  constantly  desirous  of  passing  -and  epassing 
from  the  main-land  to  the  patriot  camp,  suggested  to 
Mr.  Wells,  the  owner  of  a  small  steamboat  lying  at 
Buffalo,  called  the  Caroline,  the  idea  of  taking  out  the 
necessary  papers,  and  running  his  vessel  as  a  ferry  boat 
between  the  American  shore  and  the  islands,  for  his  own 
pecuniary  emolument."  Accordingly,  Friday,  Deceuber 
29,  the  Caroline  left  Buffalo  for  Schlosser;  .and  after 
having  arrived,  having  made  several  trips  during  the  day, 
on  account  of  the  owner,  was  moored  to  the  wharf  at 
Schlosser  Landing  during  the  night. 

Colonel  Allan  McNab,  then  commanding  at  Chippewa 
a  detachment  of  Her  Majesty's  forces,  having  got  word 
of  the  enterprise  of  the  Caroline,  resolved  upon  a  deed 
which  relieves  the  farcical  story  of  the  rebellion  by  a 
dash  of  genuine  daring.  It  is  asserted  that  Sir  Allan 
was  informed  that  the  Caroline  was  in  the  interests 
of  the  Patriots,  chartered  for  their  use,  and  intended 
to  act  offensively  against  the  Canadian  authorities. 
Whether  this  be  true  or  not,  he  planned  her  destruc- 
tion that  very  night.  For  this  purpose  a  chosen  band 
is  detailed  and  placed  under  the  command  of  Cap- 
tai"  Drew,  a  retired-on-half-pay  officer  of  the  royal 
navy. 


I 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE. 


21 


At  midnight  the  captain  received  his  parting  orders 
from  Sir  Allan,  and  the  chivalrous  band  departed  in  eight 
boats  for  the  scene  of  their  gallant  daring. 

The  unconscious  Caroline,  meanwhile,  lay  peacefully 
at  her  moorings,  beneath  the  stars  and  stripes  of  her 
country's  banner.  As  the  tavern  at  Schlosser — the  only 
building  near  by — could  accommodate  but  a  limited 
number  of  persons,  several  had  sought  a  night's  lodging 
within  the  sides  of  the  boat.  Dreaming  of  no  danger, 
they  had  retired  to  rest  unprovided  with  arms.  Thus  was 
the  night  wearing  on,  when  so  stealthily  came  the  hostile 
band  that  the  faint  splash  of  muffled  oars  was  the  first 
intimation  that  the  sentry  had  of  their  approach.  In 
reply  to  his  question,  "  Who  goes  there  ? "  came,  first 
'''"Friends!"  then  a  heavy  plashing  in  the  water;  then,  the 
leaping  of  armed  men  to  the  deck.  The  bewildered 
sleepers  start  from  their  dreams  and  rush  for  the  shore. 
"  Cut  them  down  !  "  shrieks  the  heroic  Drew,  as  he  thrills 
with  the  memory  of  Aboukir  and  Nile — '*  Cut  them  down, 
give  no  quarter."  More  or  less  injured,  they  escape  to 
the  shore,  with  life — all  but  one,  Durfee,  the  last  man  to 
leave,  who  is  brought  to  the  earth  by  a  pistol  shot,  a 
corpse ! 

A  few  minutes  and  the  Caroline  moves  ^rom  the  shore 
in  flam*^s !  Down  the  wild  current  she  speeds  faster  and 
faster,  flinging  flames  in  her  track,  till  striking  the  Canada 
waters  she  spurns  the  contact,  leaps  like  a  mad  fury,  and 
in  a  moment  more  is  as  dark  as  the  night  around  her. 
The  common  account  of  this  aff'air  takes  it  for  granted 
that  the  boat  went  over  the  Canada  Fall  aflame.  You 
will  read  of  the  fated  vessel  lifting  her  fairy  form  to  the 
verge  of  the  precipice,  lighting  up  the  dark  amphitheatre 


'^""'  '■" 


22 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE. 


I  111 


of  cataracts,  etc.,  to  the  end  of  endurance.  The  case 
was  far  otherwise.  The  physician  who  was  called  to  the 
wounded  at  Schlosser  was  riding  up  the  river's  bank  while 
the  Caroline  was  descending  the  rapids.  The  gentleman 
testifies  that  the  boat,  a  perfect  mass  of  illumination,, her 
timbers  all  aflame,  and  her  pipes  red  hot,  instantly- 
expired  when  she  struck  the  cascade  below  the  head  of 
Goat  Island. 

GRAND  ISLAND 

Lies  not  far  above  Navy  Island,  is  twelve  miles  in  length, 
and  from  two  to  seven  in  breadth.  The  land  is  highly 
fertile,  and  much  of  it  is  in  actual  state  of  cultivation. 
It  was  on  this  island  that  the  late  Major  Mordecai  M. 
Noah,  of  New  York,  designed  to  build  the  "City  of 
Ararat,"  as  a  place  of  refuge  for  the  scattered  tribes  of 
Israel.  In  1825,  he  even  went  so  far  as  to  lay  the  corner 
stone,  amid  infinite  pomp,  and  to  erect  a  monument  com- 
memorative of  the  occasion.  The  monument  is  still 
standing,  in  excellent  state  of  preservation. 

At  the  foot  of  this  island  lies  Buckhorn  Island,  with  an 
area  of  about  300  acres.  Between  these  two  islands  is  an 
arm  of  the  river,  deep  and  clear,  called 

BURNT  SHIP  BA  Y, 
From  a  circumstance  connected  with  the  close  of  the 
French  war  of  1759.  The  garrison  at  Schlosser  had 
already  made  a  gallant  resistance  to  one  attack  of  the 
English  and  were  preparing  for  another,  when,  disheart- 
ened by  the  news  of  the  fall  of  Quebec,  they  resolved  to 
destroy  the  two  armed  vessels  containing  their  military 
stores.  Accordingly  they  brought  them  to  this  bay  and 
set  them  on  fire.  The  wrecks,  even  at  this  day,  are 
sometimes  visible. 


1i 


The  case 
ed  to  the 
)ank  while 
gentleman 
ation,,her 
instantly 
e  head  of 


in  length, 
is  highly 
ultivation. 
rdecai  M. 
"City  of 
d  tribes  of 
the  corner 
ment  com- 
mt   is  still 

id,  with  an 
lands  is  an 


)se  of  the 
losser  had 
ick  of  the 
1,  disheart- 
esolved  to 
ir  military 
is  bay  and 
s  day,  are 


ba 


!^ 


■s 


>3 

to 

t*1 


t»5 


t5 


24 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


PROSPECT  PARK. 


t 


i 


"11 


Following  the  couise 
of  the  river  from  Goat 
Island  Bridge  toward  the 
precipice,  a  short  walk 
brings  you  to  the  en- 
trance of  Prospect  Park. 
These  grounds,  compris- 
ing what  are  familiarly- 
known  as  the  "Ferry 
Grove"  and  "Point 
View,"  were  purchased 
by  the  Prospect  Park 
Company  in  1872.  A 
carriage  road  leading  from  the  entrance  runs  along  the 
edge  of  the  rapids  to  the  brink  of  the  Falls.  A  solid  wall 
of  masonry  guards  this  spot,  and  from  the  angle  can  be 
obtained  a  magnificent  view  of  the  American  Falls  and 
the  frowning  rocks  below,  and  continues  along  the  bank 
of  the  river  to  the  new  Suspension  Bridge,  enabling 
persons  to  get  a  view  of  the  American  Falls,  Goat 
Island,  Horseshoe  Falls,  Table  Rock,  Clifton  House, 
the  Ferry  and  the  new  Suspension  Bridge,  without 
stepping  from  their  carriage.  Cool,  shady  walks  run 
in  all  directions,  and  rustic  seats  at  intervals  invite  the 
visitor  to  linger  here  and  gaze  at  the  magnificent  scenery 
spread  out  before  him.  The  Park  Company  have  also 
erected  a  beautiful  pavilion  where  visitors  can  "  trip  the 
light  fantastic  toe  "  within  sound  of  the  roar  of  the  great 
Cataract.  An  elegant  restaurant  is  also  in  the  grounds, 
where  they  can  regale  the  inner  man  when  tired  of  sight- 


^ 


the   couise 
from   Goat 
:  toward  the 
short    walk 
to    the   en- 
ispect  Park, 
is,  compris- 
familiarly 
le    "Ferry 
d    "Point 
purchased 
pect     Park 
1872.      A 
s  along  the 
A  solid  wall 
igle  can  be 
I  Falls  and 
g  the  bank 
e,   enabling 
Falls,    Goat 
:on    Hou'ie, 
^e,   without 
walks   run 
s  invite  the 
;nt  scenery 
r  have  also 
n  "  trip  the 
)f  the  great 
le  grounds, 
id  of  sieht- 


AMERICAN  FALLS  FROM  BELOW. 


26 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


1  n  i 


seeing.  From  the  Ferry  House,  near  the  center  of  the 
grounds,  you  can  descend  through  a  cut  in  the  bank  to 
the  water's  edge,  a  distance  of  360  feet.  The  spiral 
stairs,  constructed  here  in  1825,  having  become  shaky 
with  age,  the  present*  novel  but  commodious  contrivance 
was  inaugurated  in  1845.  The  flight  of  steps  leading 
along  the  railway  consists  of  290  steps.  The  car  is 
drawn  up  the  inclined  plane  by  water-power — an  over- 
shot wheel  being  turned  by  a  stream  diverted  from  the 
river  for  that  purpose.  Around  a  wheel  eight  feet  in 
diameter,  which  turns  in  a  horizontal  position  at  the 
head  of  the  railway,  runs  a  cable  two  and  a  half  inches 
in  diameter  and  300  feet  in  length,  attached  to  a  car  at 
either  end,  and  supported  by  pulleys  placed  at  convenient 
intervals  down  the  grade.  At  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  turn- 
ing to  the  left,  the  company  have  erected  a  commodious 
and  substantial  building,  from  whence  may  be  obtained, 
from  the  base  of  the  descending  torrent,  one  of  tl^e  most 
magnificent  views  of  the  Falls.  A  view  which  the  visitor 
should  in  no  case  fail  to  see.  Here,  alsr  during  the 
afternoon  when  the  skies  are  bright  and  the  direction  of 
the  wind  is  down  the  river,  the  spectator  may  behold  a 
marvelous  picture  by  "Nature's  own  tunning  hand,"  in 
colors  of  red,  orange  and.  violet,  reflected  and  refracted 
by  the  spray  beads  of  the  ascending  clouds.  A  passage 
has  been  made  by  which  visitors  may  pass  under  and 
behind  the  American  Fall  as  far  as  their  inclination  will 
prompt. 

CROSSING  THE  RIVER. 

The  advisable  course,  we  think,  is  to  cross  the  river  at 
the  Ferry  in  going,  and  at  the  Suspension  Bridge  in 
returning.     The  best  time  for  crossing  at  the   Ferry,  in 


nter  of  the 
he  bank  to 
The    spiral 
ome   shaky- 
contrivance 
ps   leading 
"he    car   is 
■ — an  over- 
i  from  the 
?ht  feet  in 
ion    at   the 
lalf  inches 
to  a  car  at 
convenient 
>tairs,  turn- 
)mmodious 
e  obtained, 
•f  tli^  most 
the  visitor 
during  the 
lirection  of 
y  behold  a 
J  hand,"  in 
1  refracted 
A  passage 
under  and 
nation  will 


lie  river  at 

Bridge  in 

Ferry,  in 


JilPJiiilik 


^***^!;#/i 


(///,    ■/ 


FRONT  OF  CA  VE  OF  THE  WINDS. 


1i 


u 


F'-*? 


i 


■  i 


28 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


summer,  is  either  in  the  morning,  or  two  or  three  hours 
before  sunset.  If  the  light  is  favorable — and  in  summer, 
at  these  hours,  it  almost  always  is — this  crossing  will 
probably  afford  you  your  most  vivid  and  lasting  impres- 
sion of  the  Falls.  Nowhere  do  you  have  so  fine  a  view  of 
the  Falls  as  from  below.  For  from  the  base  of  the 
stupendous  cataract,  looking  up  to  its  towering  crest,  one 
gets  a  better  idea  of  its  grandeur  and  sublimity,  the  eye 
better  appreciates  the  distance  (one  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  feet)  from  below  than  when  looking  into  its  depths, 
and  the  feeling  of  disappointment  which  some  experience 
when  they  first  behold  the  Falls,  vanishes  as  they  gaze 
upon  them  from  this  spot. 

You  may  here  test  in  your  own  experience  the  worth 
of  Burke's  aesthetic  principle  with  regard  to  height  and 
depth.  "  I  am  apt  to  imagine  [Burke  on  the  Sublime  and 
Beautiful,  §8]  that  height  is  less  grand  than  depth,  and 
that  we  are  more  struck  at  looking  down  from  a  preci- 
pice, than  looking  up  at  an  object  of  equal  height;  but  of 
that  I  am  not  very  sure."  This  was  a  necessary  result  of 
connecting  the  feeling  of  the  sublime  with  that  of  self- 
preservation.  We  doubtless  feel  more  of  terror  (are  more 
"struck")  in  looking  down  a  depth  than  up  a  height;  but 
terror,  so  far  as  being  a  principle,  or  even  a  condition  of 
sublimity,  cannot  for  a  moment  co-exist  with  its  nobler 
forms. 

The  voyageur  who  crosses  here  may  be  led  to  ask  the 
depth  of  the  river.  From  the  latest  U.  S.  survey  we  are 
enabled  to  give  the  actual  figures.  The  actual  depth 
near  the  center,  between  the  Ferry  stairs  and  the  landing 
place  on  the  Canadian  side,  was  found  to  be  192  feet. 
If  we  take  into  account  the  vast  mass  of  rock  and  shale 
that  ages  ago  was  hurled  into  the  river's  bed  when  the 


ree  hours 
I  summer, 
ssing  will 
I  impres- 
a  view  of 
e  of  the 
crest,  one 
Y,  the  eye 
-  seventy- 
:s  depths, 
xperience 
they  gaze 

he  worth 
iight  and 
)lime  and 
epth,  and 

a  preci- 
it ;  but  of 
■  result  of 
t  of  self- 
are  more 
ight;  but 
idition  of 
ts  nobler 

)  ask  the 
;y  we  are 
al  depth 
t  landing 
192  feet, 
nd  shale 
when  the 


3>o 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


Falls  were  at  this  point,  it  is  not  unreasonable  to  suppose 
that  then  its  depth  was  far  greater — at  least  fifty  feet.  To 
show  the  extreme  depth  of  the  mighty  trench  Niagara  has 
made  from  the  crest  of  the  Falls  to  the  original  bed  of  the 
river,  must  be  some  420  feet.  The  mighty  engine  that 
still  slowly  performs  this  gigantic  task,  is  Niagara's  flood 
descending  with  resistless  force,  a  distance  of  420  feet, 
with  the  weight  of  2,000,000  tons  per  minute. 

Carriages  await  you  at  the  landing  on  the  Canada  side. 
The  distance  up  the  bank  from  the  water's  edge  to  the 
Clifton  House  is  160  rods.  Proceeding  from  the  Clifton 
House  along  the  bank  toward  the  Canadian  Fall,  the  first 
object  to  arrest  your  stei)s  is 


i 


I 


,1  • 


T//E  Af[/S£'       . 

This  collection  of  natural  an^L  ^irtificial  curiosities  is 
well  worth  seeing.  The  galleries  are  arranged  to  repre- 
sent a  forest  scene,  filled  with  beasts,  birds  and  creeping 
things.  There  are,  besides,  several  chained-up  ferocities 
in  the  yard,  and  a  tastefully  arranged  green-house  in  the 
garden.     The  admission  fee  is  twenty-five  cents. 

A  few  rods  below  the  Museum,  Miss  Martha  K.  Rugg 
fell  from  the  bank  while  attempting  to  pick  a  flower  that 
grew  on  its  edge.  She  was  living  when  reached,  but 
expired  soon  afterward.  The  accident  occurred  August 
24,  1844. 

TABLE  POCR 

Is  about  twenty  rods  above  the  Museum,  at  the  angle 
formed  by  the  Horseshoe  Fall  with  the  Canadian  bank. 
The  bank  here  sends  out,  far  beyond  the  line  of  its 
general  perpendicular,  a  regular  table-like  ledge  of  rock, 
in  the  same  plane  with  the  crest  of  the  cataract. 


t-,., 


o  suppose 
^feet.  To 
iagara  has 
bed  of  the 
igine  that 
ira's  flood 

420  feet, 

lada  side, 
dge  to  the 
le  Clifton 
1,  the  first 


losities  is 
to  repre- 

l  creeping 
ferocities 

use  in  the 

K.  Rugg 
jwer  that 
:hed,  but 
d  August 


he  angle 

xn   bank. 

le  of  its 

of  rock, 


32 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


N  ^^ 


J 


' 

'  :i 

!; 

* 

it' 

.    1 

; 

■  ii-  '       .i_i_j__ 

V 

sfl 

<i 

M 

The  form  and  dirr^nsions  ^"^  lable  Rock  have  been 
changed  by  frequent  and  violent  disruptions.  In  July, 
1818,  a  mass  broke  off  160  feet  in  length,  and  from  thirty 
to  forty  feet  in  width.  December  9,  1828,  three  immense 
portions,  reaching  under  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  fell  "  with  a 
shock  like  an  earthquake."  In  the  summer  of  1829, 
another  large  mass  fell  off,  and  June  26,  1850,  a  piece  200 
feet  long  and  sixty  feet  deep.  Those  who  wish  to  go 
under  the  Horseshoe  Fall  can  descend  a  road  cut  from 
the  museum  to  the  foot  of  the  fall.  Dresses  can  be 
procured  and  guides  obtained  to  pass  under  Table 
Rock. 

It  was  on  Table  Rock  that  Mrs.  Sigoumey  wrote  her 

spirited 

APOSTROPHE   TO  NIAGARA. 

Flow  on  forever,  in  thy  glorious  robe 

Of  terror  and  of  beaut) .    God  has  eet 

His  rainbow  on  thy  forehead,  and  the  clouds 

Mantled  around  thy  feet.     And  He  doth  give 

Thy  voice  of  thunder  power  to  speak  of  Him 

Eternally: — bidding  the  lip  of  rnan 

Keep  silence,  and  upon  thy  rocky  altar,  pour 

Incense  of  awe-struck  praise. 

And  who  can  dare 
To  lift  the  insect  trump  of  earthly  hope. 
Or  love,  or  sorrow,  'mid  the  peal  sublime 
Of  thy  tremendous  hymn  !     Even  ocean  shrinks 
Back  .""rom  thy  brotherhood,  and  his  wild  waves 
Retire  abashed  ;  for  he  doth  sometimes  seem 
To  sleep  like  a  spent  laborer,  and  recall 
His  wearied  billows  from  the  vieing  play, 
And  luP  them  to  a  cradle  calm     but  thou. 
With  everlasting,  undecaying  tide, 
Dost  rest  not  night  nor  day. 

The  mornlnfj  stars 
When  first  they  sang  o'er  young  creation's  birth. 
Heard  thy  deep  anthem  ;  and  those  wrecking  fires 
That  wait  the  archangel's  signal,  to  dissolve 
The  solid  earth,  shall  find  Jehovah's  name 
Graven,  as  with  a  thousand  diamond  :   ears, 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 

On  thine  unfathomed  page.    Each  leafy  bough 
That  lifts  itself  within  thy  proud  domain, 
Doth  gather  greenness  from  thy  living  spray, 
And  tremble  at  the  baptism.     Lo  !  yon  birds 
Do  venture  boldly  near,  bathing  their  wings 
Amid  thy  foam  and  mist.     'Tis  me;t  for  them 
To  touch  thy  garments  here,  or  lightly  stir 
The  snowy  leaflets  of  this  vapor  wreath, 
Who  sport  unharmed  on  the  fleecy  cloud. 
And  listen  to  the  echoing  gate  of  heaven 
Without  ri-proof.     But  as  for  us,  it  seems 
Scarce  lawful  with  our  broken  tones  to  speak 
Familiarly  of  thee,     Methinks,  to  tint 
Thy  glorious  features  with  our  pencil's  point, 
Or  woo  thee  with  tht  tablet  of  a  song. 
Were  profanation. 

Thou  dost  make  the  soul 
A  wondering  witness  of  thy  majesty  ; 
And  while  it  rushes  with  delirious  joy 
To  tread  thy  vestibule,  dost  chain  its  step, 
And  check  its  rapture  with  the  numbling  vievr 
Of  its  own  nothingness,  bidding  it  stand 
In  the  dread  presence  of  the  Invisible, 
Ai  if  to  answer  to  its  God  through  thee. 


33 


BURNING  SPRING 

Is  about  one  mile  above  Table  Rock,  near  the  river's  edge. 
The  water  of  the  spring  is  highly  charged  with  sulphur- 
etted hydrogen  gas,  and  emits  a  pale,  blue  light  when 
ignited.  To  heighten  the  effect,  the  phenomenon  of  the 
burning  water  is  exhibited  in  a  darkened  room. 

Near  this  spot  was  fought  the  battle  of  Chippewa,  July 
5,  1814. 

LUNDY'S  LANE  BATTLE  GROUND 

Is  one  mile  and  a  half  westwardly  from  the  Falls.     On 

this  plain  was  fought  the  great  battle  of  the  war  of   1814, 

July  25.     The  loss  on  both  sides,  in  killed  and  wounded, 

was  nearly  1800.     The  village  near  by  is  Drummondville, 

in  memory  of  Gen.  Drummond,  the  commander  of  the 
2 


a 


34 


ILLUSTRATED      GUIDE. 


i  II 


i 


m  I; 


I  i.  i 


British  forces  on  the  line.  From  this  point  we  return  and 
recross  to  the  American  side  by 

T//E  NEIV  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE, 

One-eighth  of  a  mile  below  the  American  cataract,  opened 
to  the  public  on  the  fourth  day  of  January,  1869.  It  is 
the  longest  suspension  bridge  in  the  world,  its  roadway 
being  1,300  feet  in  length.  Its  cables  are  1,800  feel  in 
length;  the  towers  100  feet  high,  and  it  spans  the  mighty 
chasm  through  which  rolls  its  floods  towards  Lake 
Ontario,  190  feet  above  the  water. 

From  this  bridge  the  most  delightful  views  of  the  Falls 
are  to  be  obtained,  as  well  as  of  the  great  ravine  between 
the  Canadian  Fall  and  the  Rapids,  a  distance  of  two 
miles,  along  the  bottom  of  which  the  vast  drainage  of 
the  upper  inland  seas  flows  in  a  stream  250  feet  in 
depth.  It  is  but  a  walk  of  twenty  minutes  from  the 
principal  hotels  on  the  American  side  to  the  former  site 
of  Table  Rock  and  the  Horseshoe  Fall  on  the  Canada 
side. 

As  a  work  of  engineering  art  and  mechanical  skill,  it 
adds  new  attraction  to  the  scenery  which  excites  the 
admiration  of  every  beholder,  and  is  indeed  the  envy  of 
all  other  nations. 

SUSPENSION  BRIDGE 

Is  two  miles  below  the  Falls,  is  800  feet  long,  and  extends 
230  feet  above  one  of  the  most  turbulent  streams  on  the 
glolie.  It  is  owned  by  a  stock  company,  and  cost  about 
500,000  dollars.  It  was  built  under  the  sui)erintendence 
of  J.  A.  Roebling.  The  cars  of  the  Great  Western  Rail- 
way pass  over  the  bridge  to  connect  with  the  New  York 
Central. 


return  and 


ct,  c^sned 
169.  It  is 
>  roadway 
00  feel  in 
he  mighty 
rds    Lake 

the  Falls 
e  between 
:e  of  two 
rainage  of 
;o  feet    in 

from  the 
)rmer  site 
le  Canada 

al  skill,  it 
:cites  the 
le  envy  of 


1  extends 
n«:  on  the 
osc  nbout 
itendence 
ern  Rail- 
s\'w  York 


■>! 


hi 


>3 


t*l 


i 


..^ 


■1 


'if 


36  I  L  L  U  S  T  R  A  T  E  D     G  U  I  D  E. 

The  following  are  the  dimensions  : 

Length  of  span  from  center  to  center  of  towers 822  feet. 

Height  of  towtr  above  rock  on  the  American  side 88     " 

"       "       "          "         "          "       Canada  side 78     " 

*'       "■       "          "       floor  of  railway 60    "• 

"      "   track  above  water 258    " 

Number  of  wiie  cables 4 

Diameter  of  each  cable 10^  in. 

Number  of  No.  9  wires  in  each  calile Si^sg 

Ultimate  aggregate  strength  of  cables  12,400  tons. 

Weight  of  superstructure 800    " 

"       "              ''              and  maximum  loads 1,250    " 

Maximum  weight  the  cable  and  stays  will  support 7(309     " 

Note. — The  wires  were  first  got  across  by  means  of  a  kite, 

WHIRLFOOL  RAPIDS. 

This  wonderful  spot  is  about  two  miles  distant  from  the 
Falls,  down  the  rushing,  green  river,  which,  flowing  at  a 
profound  depth  between  high  banks,  looks  so  quiet  yet 
sullen,  after  leaving  the  howling  abyss  at  the  foot  of  the 
Falls.  But  at  Whirlpool  Rapids  !  what  a  change  !  The 
whole  force  of  the  water  concentrates  itself  here,  and 
seems  as  though  it  would  tear  asunder  the  steep,  wooded 
banks  that  inclose  it,  so  wild  and  startling  is  its  terrific 
power;  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  the  water  thunders 
down  in  seething,  heaving  masses  of  foam,  throwing  up 
streams  of  water  covered  with  spray,  and  in  places  whirl- 
ing it  up  into  angry  billows  twenty  or  thirty  feet  above  the 
heads  of  the  spectators  standing  on  the  shore.  It  is 
deafening  in  its  roar,  and  here,  even  more  than  at  the 
brink  of  the  Falls,  can  we  ^lave  a  realization  of  the 
terrific  force  of  Niagara. 

At  this  point  ah  elevator  has  been  built,  worked  by  a 
water-wheel  some  300  feet  below  the  top  of  the  bank, 
enabling  the  visitor  to  reach  the  water's  edge  without 
fatigue. 


822  feet. 
88     " 
78     " 
60    "• 

258     '' 

4 
10^  in. 

31659 
12,400  tons. 

800  '' 
1,250  " 
7,309     " 


It  from  the 
)wing  at  a 

quiet  yet 
foot  of  the 
ige !     The 

here,  and 
p,  wooded 
its  terrific 

thunders 
owing  up 
ces  whirl- 
above  the 

e.  It  is 
m  at  the 
11   of   the 

ked  by  a 
he  bank, 
without 


38 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


1 


.|Mi! 


Through  a  channel  but  about  300  feet  in  width,  and 
walled-in  by  giant  banks,  from  the  summit  of  which  it 
makes  one  giddy  to  look  down,  rush  the  gathered  waters 
of  Lakes  Superior,  Michigan,  Huron,  St.  Clair  and  Erie ! 
Those  who  have  descended  co  the  river's  edge,  gazed 
upon  the  wild  tumultuous  surge,  and  listened  to  its  roar, 
can  form  some  idea  of  this  mighty  mass  of  struggling 
waters.  No  description  can  do  it  justice.  Exaggeration 
itself  is  baffled. 

The  depth  of  the  water  at  the  Rapids  is  estimated 
to  be  not  less  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet !  The 
natural  inquiry  on  reading  the  above  would  be  :  "  How 
did  you  happen  to  find  that  out.?"  The  answer  is: 
We  know  about  the  amount  of  water  (very  nearly) 
passing  over  the  Falls,  the  rapidity  with  which  it  runs, 
and  the  width  of  the  river  at  this  point — hence  the 
calculation  is  easily  made,  nor  may  the  conclusion 
reached  be  characterized  as  a  far-fetched  or  very 
erroneous  one. 

In  fact  the  river  inust  be  very  deep,  as  the  visitor  will 
readil/comprehend,  to  admit  the  passage  of  this  immense 
volume  of  water. 

At  this  point,  on  the  sixth  day  of  June,  1861,  occurred 
one  of  the  most  daring  feats  ever  attempted  by  a  human 
being.  The  little  steamer  Maid  of  the  Mist  left  her 
moorings,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  the  Suspension 
Bridge,  June  6,  186 1,  and  swung  l)oldly  out  into  the  river, 
to  try  one  of  the  most  perilous  voyages  ever  made.  She 
shot  forward  like  an  arrow  of  light,  bowed  gracefully  to 
the  multitude  on  the  bridge,  and  witii  the  velocity  of 
lightning  passed  on  to  meet  her  doom.  Many  beheld 
this  hazardous,  daring  adventure,  expecting  at  every 
instant    she   would   be  dashed   to   pieces   and  disappear 


n  width,  and 
;  of  which  it 
hered  waters 
ir  and  Erie ! 
edge,  gazed 
i  to  its  roar, 
•f  struggling 
Exaggeration 

is  estimated 
■  feet !  ^Fhe 
be :     "  How 

answer  is  : 
^ery  nearly) 
lich  it  runs, 
—hence    the 

conclusion 
d    or    very 

visitor  will 
|iis  immense 

I,  occurred 
3y  a  human 
?>/■  left  her 
Suspension 
o  the  river, 
"lade.  She 
racefully  to 
velocity  of 
my  beheld 
at  every 
disappear 


"  \ 


5  ' 


40 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


Li 


3 


i'  '  i 


forever.  Amazement  thrilled  every  heart,  and  it  appeared 
as  if  no  power  short  of  Omnipotence  could  save  her. 
"  There  !  there  !  "  was  the  suppressed  exclamation  that 
escaped  the  lips  of  all.  "  She  careens  over !  She  is  lost! 
She  is 'lost!''  But,  guided  by  an  eye  that  dimmed  not, 
and  a  hand  that  never  trembled,  she  was  piloted  through 
those  maddened  waters  by  the  intrepid  Robinson  in  per- 
fect safety,  and  is  now  performing  less  hazardous  voyages 
on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

She  is  the  only  craft,  so  far  as  we  know,  that  ever  made 
this  fearful  trip  and  lived.  Though  our  intrepid  hero  had 
performed  many  hazardous  exploits  in  saving  the  lives  of 
persons  who  had  fallen  into  the  river,  yet  this  last  act,  in 
taking  the  Maid  of  the  Mist  through  the  Whirlpool,  is  the 
climax  of  all  his  adventures.  The  boat  lost  her  smoke- 
stack, but  otherwise  received  no  injury,  being  very 
strongly  built. 

Three  men  were  on  board.  Pilot,  Engineer  and  Fire- 
man, all  safe. 

A  short  distance  further  down  stream  we  find  the 
Whirlpool,  which  is  a  vast  basin  or  amphitheatre,  with  an 
ill-proportioned  opening  at  right  angles  with  the  river 
above ;  this  opening  is  to  the  right  as  you  have  your  back 
to  the  Falls,  and  is  comparatively  narrow.  The  pool  is 
shut  in  on  all  sides,  save  the  opening  mentioned,  by  rocky 
cliffs  350  feet  high,  whose  sides  facing  the  river  are  quite 
smooth  and  perpendicular.  The  basin  containing  the 
pool  is  nearly  circular,  and  together  with  the  waters  form 
a  very  picturesque  scene.  But  as  to  the  pool  itself  it 
must  be  acknowledged  that  many  are  disappointed  with  its 
appearance.  It  is  not  in  the  shape  of  a  vast  caldron  or 
pool  formed  by  an  outlet  in  the  bottom  of  a  vessel, 
whereby  the  center  is  greatly  depressed,  etc.,  but,  on  the 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


4r 


contrary,  the  pool  in  question  is  actually  ten  feet  higher  in 
the  center  than  at  the  sides;  it  is  formed  by  the  pent-up, 
agitated  waters,  in  their  bewildered  course  Lo  find  an  outlet, 
terrifically  "swinging  round  the  circle."  I  can  illustrate 
in  nowise  more  plainly  than  to  compare  the  river  to  some 
ferocious  animal  who,  having  never  known  defeat,  has 
suddenly,  by  his  own  carelessness,  fallen  into  a  trap.  His 
first  impulse  is  to  walk  round  the  outer  edge  of  the  pit, 
that  he  may  find  a  means  of  escape.  This  passage  when 
found  appears  to  be  wholly  inadequate,  and  yet  it  has 
answered  for  thousands  of  years.  'Facilities  for  seeing 
the  Whirlpool  .'.re  afforded  by  an  inclined  railway  on  the 
Canadian  sio.,,  and  by  a  most  romantic  stairway  on  the 
Amerirnn. 

Les;  tl.an  half  a  mile  further  down  the  river,  on  the 
American  side,  is  the  Devil's  Hole,  a  terrible  gloomy  and 
savage  chasm  in  the  bank  of  the  river,  between  one  and 
two  hundred  feet  deep  Overhanging  this  dark  cavern  is 
a  perpendicular  precipice,  from  the  top  of  which  falls  a 
small  stream,  usually  dry  in  summer,  named  the  "  Bloody 
Run." 

LEW  IS  TON. 

On  the  twenty-fourth  of  May,  1798,  Surveyor-General 
De  Witt  wrote  to  Mr.  Ellicott,  of  the  Holland  Land 
Company,  "  to  examine  where  a  town  could  most  con- 
veniently be  placed  on  the  Niagara  River,  where  the 
Indian  title  had  been  extinguished,"  and  to  *'  furnish  a 
map  and  survey  thereof."  Mr.  Ellicott  recommended 
Lewiston  as  the  place ;  and  surely  a  prettier,  or  at  the 
time  more  eligible  site,  could  not  have  been  selected.  It 
is  seven  miles  below  the  Falls,,  nestling  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  amid  a  wealth  of  "  living  greenness  " — the  verv 


I 


42 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


ideal  of  rural  loveliness.  As  the  head  of  navigation  on 
the  lower  Niagara,  it  is  a  place  of  considerable  impor- 
tance, but  has  been  much  injured  by  the  construction  of 
the  Erie  and  Welland  canals.  It  contains,  besides  a  pro- 
portionate number  of  stores  and  hotels,  churches  of  all 
the  various  denominations,  and  an  academy  of  consider- 
able size.  In  1812,  it  was  the  head-quarters  of  Gen.  Van 
Rensselaer,  of  the  New  York  militia.  Here  may  be  seen 
the  remains  of  the  third  Suspension  Bridge  erected  at 
this  place  and  destroyed. 

QUEENS  TON 

Is  a  small  village  opposite  Lewiston,  containing  about  200 
inhabitant?,  three  churches — Episcopal,  Presbyterian  and 
Baptist — a  telegraph  office  and  a  tannery.  The  name  of 
this  place  is  associated  in  history  with  the  gallant  defense 
by  the  British  of  the  adjacent  heights,  in  the  war  of  1812. 
The  village  is  prettily  situated,  but  its  importance  has 
been  lessened  by  the  same  causes  which  have  retarded 
the  growth  of  Lewiston. 


BROCA"S  MON  UMEN T, 

On  Queenstor.  Heights,  just  above  the  village  of  this 
name,  near  the  spot  where  the  gallant  soldier  fell,  stands 
a  monument  to  Gen.  Brock,  beneath  which  his  ashes  and 
those  of  his  aid-de-camp,  McDonald,  repose.  The  first 
monument  was  completed  in  1826,  and  consisted  of  a  plain 
shaft  of  freestone,  about  126  feet  high,  and  surmounted 
by  an  observatory,  reached  by  a  spiral  stairs  on  the  inside. 
This  was  blown  up  by  some  miscreant,  on  the  night  of 
the  17th  of  April,  1840.  The  present  structure — inaug- 
urated Aug.   T3th,   1853,  amid  the    enthusiasm   of    over 


■     1: 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


43 


10,000  people  present — is  far  niore  magnificent  than  the 
former.  Its  whole  height  is  185  feet.  The  sub-base  is 
forty  feet  square  and  thirty  feet  high.  On  this  are  placed 
four  lions,  facing  respectively  north,  south,  east  and  west. 
Next  is  the  base  of  the  pedestal,  twenty-one  feet  six 
inches  square,  and  ten  feet  high.  Then  comes  the  pedes- 
tal, sixteen  feet  square  and  ten  feet  high,  bearing  a  heavy 
cornice,  ornamented  with  lion-heads  alternately  with 
wreaths  in  alto-relievo.  From  the  top  of  the  pedestal 
to  the  top  of  the  base  of  the  shaft,  the  form  changes 
from  square  to  round.  The  shaf'  is  a  fluted  column  of 
freestone,  seventy-five  feet  in  height,  and  ten  feet  in  di- 
ameter, surrounded  by  a  Corinthian  capital,  ten  feet  high, 
on  which  is  worked  in  relief  a  statue  of  the  Goddess  of 
War.  Then  comes  a  round  dome,  nine  feet  high,  which 
is  reached  by  250  spiral  steps  from  the  base  on  the  in- 
side. The  whole  is  surmounted  by  a  massive  statue  of 
General  Isaac  Brock. 


FORT  NIAGARA 

Is  built  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River  on  the  Amer- 
ican side.  Within  the  last  few  years,  important  repairs 
have  been  made  around  the  fort,  and  the  entire  wall  has 
been  constructed  anew.  "  During  the  progress  of  these 
rejviirs,  many  relics  of  former  days  were  found.  The 
entrances  to  the  several  underground  passages  were  dis- 
covered;  but  owing  to  tlieir  ruinous  state,  they  were  not 
entered ;  could  this  have  been  done,  no  doubt  many  in- 
teresting discoveries  would  have  been  made."  This  spot 
is  interesting  as  historic  ground,  when  associated  with 
tlie  memory  of  the  heroic  Lr.  Salle,  and  the  gentle  and 
courtly  De    Nonville,  and    all    the  gallant    "rhiefs   and 


44 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


ladies  fair "  that  have  graced  its  frowning  walls.  The 
village  adjacent  to  the  fort  is  called  Youngstown,  from 
the  name  of  its  founder,  the  late  John  Young,  Esq. 
Here  was  fought  the  battle  of  the  24th  of  July,  1759,  in 
which  Prideaux,  the  English  general,  fell,  and  after  which 
the  French  garrison  surrendered  to  Sir  William  Johnson, 
who  succeeded  to  the  command  of  the  English. 


ill 


NIAGARA, 

Opposite  Youngstown,  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Up- 
per Canada,  and  was  at  one  time  the  capital  of  the  prov- 
ince. It  is  on  the  site  of  the  old  town  of  Newark,  burnt 
by  Gen.  M'Clure,  December  loth,  1813.  It  is  a  pleasant 
town,  facing  Lake  Ontario  on  one  side,  and  the  river  on 
the  other.  In  former  days,  its  importance  was  much 
more  considerable  than  at  present.  Since  'the  comple- 
tion of  the  Welland  Canal,  St.  Catharines,  being  more 
centrally  situated,  has  absorbed  its  trade,  and  detracted 
very  much  from  its  prosperity. 

A  short  distance  above  the  village  are  seen  the  ruins 
of  old  Fort  George,  taken  by  the  Americans,  under  Dear- 
born, May  29th,  1813,  destroyed  by  M'Clure,  December 
loth,  and  has  never  been  rebuilt.  A  little  below  the 
town  is  Fort  Mississaga,  where  a  detachment  of  British 
soldiers  is  stationed. 


\  t 


trails.  The 
town,  from 
3ung,  Esq. 

Yy  1759,  ill 
ifter  which 

1  Johnson, 

I. 


ns  in  Up- 
the  prov- 
ark,  burnt 
1  pleasant 
J  river  on 
'as  much 
'■  comple- 
ng  more 
detracted 


the  ruins 
er  Dear- 
►ecember 
elow  the 
f  British 


f        '!' 


f^     ;i:t 


1 


/r/.\'77;A'  .vcv-.A'A'  .;/•  niacara  fai.i. 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


45 


NIAG/RA  IN  WINTER. 


» ♦ » 


vT^OMPARATIVELY  few  persons  know  anything  of 


^  ■*,♦  «) 


the  indescribable  grandeur  of  Niagara  in  winter. 
"  No  one  truly  appreciates  Niagara  who  has  not 

seen  it  in  winter.  Deeply  as  the  manifoM  grand- 
eur and  beauty  of  its  sumu^er  aspect  impress  the  be- 
holder, and  solemn  and  delicious  as  are  the  emotions  it 
inspires  when  arrayed 
in  the  rich  drapery  of 
autumn,  it  is  still  more 
impressive  when  clad 
in  the  superb  and  daz- 
zling livery  of  winter. 

"There  is  at  this  time 
a  universal  bleakness 
which  repels  the  vision 
from  discursive  move- 
ments, and  concen- 
trates it,  with  over- 
whelm-'ig  effect,  upon 
the  brilliant  spectacle  of  the  cataract  itself,  and  certainly 
that  spectack  is  among  the  most  striking  and  splendid  of 
earthly  scenes. 

"  Its  wonderful  enchantment  is  chiefly  f'.'ie  to  the  grad- 
u.i  freezing  of  t'  ■  -.pray,  blown  thinly  o  ^-  the  islands 
and  adjacent  shoics,  until  the  simplest  objects  assume 
the  most  grotesque  or  pi' nificant  forpv:  :,hapcd  in  trr,  ■?- 
])Drent  ice  Very  marvelous  is  the  ch  t'lge  to  one  who 
stood  by  that  majestic  tide  in  the  bright  hours  of  Aug-ist 


46 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


K   i 


r 


or  October.  The  islands  that  were  then  carpeted  wif.i 
verdure,  nvd  beaming  with  the  soft  tints  of  summer,  ?.re 
now  laid  in  ice  as  p. ire  and  solid  as  the  most  stainless 
Parian;  v:i  "^i  thi^  trees  and  shrubs,  that  so  lately  blazed 
with  the  splc;do:i>  of  ..LUunin,  are  robed  in  the  same 
spotless  vesture,  and  borne  down  to  the  very  ground  by 
its  massy  weight.  Even  the  giant  rocks,  that  shoot  up  so 
boldly  from  the  far  dep'lis  of  the  precipice,  are  hooded 
SLTid  wr  -pped  with  vast  breadths  of  ice,  as  if  to  rebuke 
thi  ir  lantastic  ?!  ^pertinence.  All  things  are  encased  and 
en',  eloped  w"th  gleaming  ice.  Ice  islands  are  covered 
with  forests  of  ice  that  bend  down  to  the  ice  with  the 
iciest  of  fruits.  Everywhere,  but  in  the  immediate  chan- 
nel of  the  swollen  and  surging  river,  the  ice-giant  reigns 
sovereign  of  the  ascendant. 

"  One  of  the  most  singular  effects  of  this  frosty  domin- 
ion is  displayed  upon  Luna  Island  (of  beautiful  memory), 
where  the  trees  are  bowed  down  to  the  earth  with  their 
snowy  vestments,  like  so  many  white  nuns  doing  saintly 
homage  to  the  genius  of  the  place.  But  the  most  magnifi- 
cent and  bewitching  effect  is  produced  by  the  morning 
sun  when  it  pours  over  these  fairy-like  islands  and  forests 
a  flood  of  kindli'-'g  rays.  At  such  a  moment  Lhe  charac- 
teristic attributjs  jf  Niagara  seem  fused  and  heightened 
into 'something  more  exquisite  still.'  Its  intrinsic  sub- 
limity and  beauty  experience  a  liberal  transfiguration. 
Nature  is  visibly  idealized.  Nothing  more  brilliant  or 
enchanting  can  be  conceived.  The  Irif'^bJx'st  iales  of 
magic  *p^^'e  their  ineffectual  fires.'  T  jiids,  whose  Howers 
are  thi»  *  diamonds,  and  forest  ,  whose  branches  are 
glineri;  .vith  brilliants,  and  amethysts,  and  pearls,  seem 
no  •  '•  a  luxurious  figr  ent  of  genius,  but  a  living 
an  J   i     iming  reality      One  feels  in   the  midst  of  such 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


47 


rpeted  wita 
immer,  p.re 
>st  stainless 
tely  blazed 
the  same 
ground  by 
hoot  up  so 
re  hooded 
to  rebuke 
leased  and 
e   covered 
e  with  the 
iate  chan- 
lant  reigns 

ty  domin- 
memory), 
with  their 
ng  saintly 
t  magnifi- 
J  morning 
id  forests 
e  charac- 
sightened 
nsic  sub- 
gu  rat  ion. 
iiiiant  or 

uiles  of 
e  lowers 
ches  are 
ris,  seem 
a  living 
of  such 


blazing  coruscations  and  such  glorious  bursts  of  radi- 
ance, as  if  the  magician's  ring  had  been  slipped  upon  his 
finger  unawares,  and,  rubbed  unwittingly,  had  summoned 
the  gorgeous  scene  before  him.  It  is  as  if  Mammoth 
Cave,  with  its  groves  of  stalactites,  and  crystal  bowers, 
and  Gothic  avenue  and  halls,  and  star  chambers,  and 
flashing  grottoes,  were  suddenly  uncappe"^.  to  the  wintry 
sun,  and  bathed  in  his  thrilling  beams;  or  as  if  the  fabled 
palace  of  Neptune  had  risen  abruptly  from  the  deep,  and 
Avere  flinging  its  splendors  in  the  eye  of  heaven." 

It  is  indeed  a  scene  of  peerless  grandeur,,  and  would 
richly  repay  a  pilgrimage  from  the  extremest  limits  of 
the  nation.  A  man  of  taste  and  feeling  should  be 
willing  to  "put  a  girdle  round  the  globe"  to  witness  it. 
We  are  amazed  that  parties  of  enterprising  tourists  do 
not  flock  there  from  all  quarters  of  the  Union.  They 
surely  have  little  passion  for  the  sublime  and  beautiful 
who  think  of  the  scene  only  to  shudder  at  it  and 
forego  it. 

NIAGARA  FALLS  BY  MOONLIGHT. 

There  is  much  the  same  difierence  between  Niagara 
in  the  "gairish  light  of  day"  and  Niagara  bathed  in  the 
soft  splendor  of  moonlight,  that  there  would  be  between 
the  Paradise  Lost  in  the  freedom  of  its  epic  grandeur 
and  the  same  translated  into  vapid  prose.  The  peculiar 
charm  of  the  scene  is  not  in  the  separate  enjoyment  of 
the  silvery  light  and  of  the  forceful  flood,  nor  yet  in  any 
contrast  between  the  grace  of  the  one  and  the  strength  of 
the  other,  but  in  the  instantaneous  blending  of  compli- 
men.p.rv  influences,  a  sort  of  "gladness  in  accomplished 
promise."     The  peculiar  effect  of  moonlight  upon  the 


48 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


features  of  a  landscape  is  to  harmonize,  to  soften,  to 
spiritualize.  Everything  within  its  smile  is  lighter  and 
more  graceful.  The  rivers  are  turned  into  "vales  of 
winding  light ;"  the  cliffs  lose  their  harshness  of  outline ; 
the  trees,  in  their  picturesque  repose,  look  like  the  trees 
of  a  dream;  even  sound  itself,  in  sympathy  with  the 
scene,  falls  upon  the  ear  with  softer  cadence.  A  favorite 
haunt  at  Niagara  in  this  magical  season  is  Goat  Island. 
It  is  here  that  the  best  views  are  obtained  of  that  rare 
phenomenon,  the  Lunar  Bow.  At  the  time  of  the  full 
moon  this*  exhibition  is  as  perfect  as  lunar  light  can 
make  it.  At  best,  however,  it  fs  very  faint,  a  mere  belt 
of  the  saintly  hue.  Many  persons  consider  the  lunar 
bow  a  sufficient  justification  of^  immoderate  raptures; 
but  its  attractiveness,  we  cannot  but  think,  is  owing 
more  to  its  being  so  seldom  seen  than  to  any  intrinsic 
beauty  it  may  possess. 

THE  FIRST  MAN  WHO  SA  W  THE  FALLS. 

The  first  white  man  who  saw  the  Falls,  so  far  as  we 
have  any  authentic  record,  was  Father  Hennepin,  Jesuit 
missionary,  sunt  out  from  the  French  among  the  Indians, 
as  early  as  the  year  1678 — 2 do  years  since.  His  descrip- 
tions were  visionary  and  exceedingly  exaggerated.  He 
thought  the  Falls  six  or  seven  hundred  feet  high,  and 
that  four  persons  could  walk  abreast  under  the  sheet  of 
water  without  any  other  inconvenience  than  a  slight 
sprinkling  f'rom  the  spray.  But  we  would  not  attribute 
this  wild  and  fanciful  description  to  a  want  of  candor,  or 
an  intention  to  deceive.  The  fact  probablv  was,  he  had 
no  means  of  measuring  its  height,  and  jubtedly  got 

his  account  from  the  Indians,  which  very  likely  would  be 
incorrect. 


#%. 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


49 


The  most  graceful  rhymes  indigenous  to  the  locality 
are  the  following  by  the  late  Colonel  Porter,  who  was  an 
artist  both  with  the  pencil  and  the  pen.  They  were 
written  for  a  young  relative  in  playful  explanation  of 
a  sketch  he  had  drawn  at  the  top  of  a  page  in  her 
Album,  representing  the  Falls  in  the  distance,  and  an 
Indian  chief  and  two  Europeans  in  the  foreground : 

"An  Artist,  underneath  his  sign  (a  masterpiece,  of  course), 
Had  written,  to  prevent  mistakes, '  This  represents  a  horse ;'  *    ■* 

So,  ere  I  send  my  Album  Sketch,  lest  connoisseurs  should  e*r, 
I  think  it  well  my  Pen  shdLld  be  my  Art's  interpreter. 

"  A  chieftain  of  the  Iroquois,  clad  in  a  bison'l  skin,    » 
Had  led  two  travelers  through  the  wood.  La  Salle  and  Hennepin. 
He  points,  and  there  they,  standing,  gaze  upon  the  ceaseless  flow 
Of  waters  falling  as  thpy  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 

*'  Those  three  are  gone,  and  little  heed  our  worldly  gain  or  loss— 
The  Chief,  the  Soldier  of  the  Sword,  the  Soldier  of  the  Cross. 
One  died  in  battle,  one  in  bed,  and  one  by  secret  foe  ! 
But  the  waters  fall    s  once  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 

"  Ah,  me !  what  myriads  of   >  '  \,since  then,  have  come  and  gone ; 
What  states  have  risen  a.«a  jrcayed,  what  prizes  lost  and  won  ; 
What  varied  tricks  the  juggler,  Time^  has  played  w!*h  all  below  r 
But  the  waters  fall  as  once  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 

"What  troops  of  tourists  have  encamped  upon  the  river's  biin;'. 
What  poets  shed  from  countless  quills,  Niagaras  of  i.ik ; 
What  artist  armies  tried  to  fix  the  evanescent  bow 
Of  the  waters  falling  as  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 


"And  stately  inns  ttcu  scores  of  guests  from  well  replenished  larder ; 
And  hackmen  drive  their  horses  hard,  but  drive  a  bargain  harder ; 
And  screaming  locomotives  rush  in  anguish  to  and  fro : 
But  the  waters  fall  as  once  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 

"  Anf?,  brides  of  every  age  and  clime  frequent  the  island's  bower, 
And  gaze  from  off  the  stone-built  perch,  hence  called  the  Bridal  Tower  ; 
And  many  a  lunar  bel'e  goes  forth  to  meet  a  lunar  beau. 
By  the  waters  falling  as  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 

3 


50  ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 

"And  bridges  bind  thy  breast,  Oh,  stream  !  and  buzzing  mill-wheels  turn, 
To  show,  like  Samson,  thou  art  forced  thy  daily  bre.  x  to  earn  ; 
And  steamers  splash  thy  milk-white  waves,  exulting  as  they  go  : 
But  the  waters  fall  as  once  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 

"  Thy  banks  no  longer  are  the  same  that  early  travelers  found  them. 
They  break  and  crumble  now  and  then  like  other  banks  around  them; 
And  on  their  verge  our  life  sweeps  on — alternate  joy  and  woe: 
But  the  waters  fall  as  once  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 


'  Thus  phantoms  of  a  by-gone  age  have  melted  like  the  spray. 
And  in  our  turn  we  too  shall  pass,  the  phantoms  of  to-day  ; 
But  the  armies  of  the  coming  time  shall  watch  the  ceaseless  flow 
Of  waters  falling  as  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago." 


.si;: 


mM 


m 


THE  NIAGARA  FRONTIER. 

Niagara  River,  from  lake  to  lake,  com})rehends  a  length 
of  only  about  thirty-six  miles.  Contracted  as  this  border 
region  is,  as  an  important  section  of  the  geographical 
lines  between  governments  lat  have  n  )t  always  been 
on  terms  of  amity,  it  has  o:  n  beci.  made  the  theatre 
of  war.  Its  localities  are  therefore  associated  with  the 
history  of  our  country,  and  with  the  fame  of  her  military 
chieftains,  and  on  this,  if  on  no  '  her  account,  are 
worthy  of  a  description.  The  history  of  this  region 
discloses  to  our  view,  first,  the  lordly  Indian,  roaming 
the  majestic  solitude;  next,  the  wary  pioneers  of  the 
civilization  and  the  vices  of  Europe,  mingling  the 
hereditary  hatred  of  their  respective  nations  when  cross- 
ing one  another's  path;  then,  a  protracted  strife  for 
the  mastery  between  the  delegated  powers  of  the 
nations;  then,  a  lull  of  peace  and  prosperity;  .gain, 
the  atrocities  of  war;  and  again,  and  now,  the  blessings 
of  peace. 

First,  our  immediate  predecessors, 


Ik  i" 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE. 


51 


THE  IROQUOIS. 

This  was  the  name  given  by  the  French  to  the  confed- 
eracy of  the  Five  Nations,  consisting  of  the  Mohawks, 
on  the  river  of  that  name,  the  Oneidas,  on  the  southern 
shore  of  Oneida  Lake,  'he  Cayugas,  near  Cayuga  Lake, 
and  the  Senecas,  stretching  from  the  Seneca  Lake  to  the 
Niagara  River.  Father  Hennepin  says  tliat  there  w^ere 
villages  of  the  Senecas  on  the  Niagara  not  many  miles 
above  the  Falls.  The  Iroquois  Senecas  were,  therefore, 
the  immediate  predecessors  of  the  whites  on  this  frontier. 
Remnants  of  this  once  mighty  people,  whom  Volney,  in 
a  burst  of  enthusiasm,  called  the  Romans  of  the  West, 
still  linger  round  their  primeval  homesteads.  The  Tus- 
caroras,  a  tribe  incorporated  with  the  Iroquois  in  1712, 
still  enjoy  the  reservation  of  their  lands,  and  occupy  a 
village  about  nine  miles  from  the  Falls.  The  remains  of 
the  Senecas  dwell  further  to  the  south.  It  is  a  curious 
fact,  that,  while  the  rapacity  of  the  white  man  has  stripped 
them  almost  entirely  of  their  possessions,  and  shorn  them 
of  their  power,  their  ancient  league  is  still  in  force,  thpir 
traditional  customs  still  observed.  Yearly  they  glide  to 
their  council-fire  through  the  waving  grain-lands  of  their 
once  forest-home,  like  lingering  spirits  of  the  past,  to 
banquet  on  the  recollections  of  their  traditionary  great- 
ness. From  their  ancient  seat  at  Onondaga,  the  council- 
fire  is  transferred  to  Tonawanda.  Here  their  representa- 
tives yet  assemble  and  perform  their  ancient  rites  and 
ceremonies. 

It  must  not,  however,  be  inferred  that  the  Iroquois 
Senecas  were  the  original  proprietors  of  the  soil,  or  the 
first  of  whom  we  have  any  account.     Just  above  the  hori- 


52 


LUSTRA  TED     GUIDE, 


I  w  -      ■ 

ilM 


zon  of  history  flits  the  shadow  of  a  great  and  peaceful 

tribe, 

THE  NEUTER  NATION, 

Supposed  to  be  identical  with  the  Kah-Kwas,  "in  whose 
wigwams  the  fierce  Hurons  and  relentless  Iroquois  met 
on  neutral  ground.'*  Father  L'AUemant,  in  1641  men- 
tions distinctly  "  the  easternmost  village  of  the  Neutral 
Nation,  'Ongniaarha'  (Niagara),  of  the  same  name  as 
the  river."  In  the  following  year  Charlevoix  also  men- 
tions this  people,  and  says  that  they  were  called  "  *  neutral ' 
because  they  took  no  part  in  the  wars  which  desolated 
the  country."  Canada  West  was  the  seat  of  the  "fierce 
Hurons."  Situated  between  this  warlike  people  and  the 
Iroquois,  the  neutrality  of  the  Kah-Kwas  could  not  long 
be  preserved.  "  To  avoid  the  fury  of  the  Iroquois  they 
joined  them  against  the  Hurons,  but  gained  nothing  by 
the  union."  They  fell  victims  to  the  furious  power  they 
sought  to  conciliate,  and  disappeared  as  a  nation  about 
the  year  1643.  To  their  seats,  as  we  have  said,  suc- 
ceeded the  Senecas,  who  were  in  occupation  of  them 
when  first  visited  by 

THE  EUROPEAN  PIONEERS. 

It  is  not  known  when  this  region  was  first  visited  by 
Europeans,  though  such  an  event  was  possible  any  time 
after  the  discovery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  in  1534. 

"  French  traders  are  said  to  have  visited  the  Falls  as 
early  as  1610  and  1615,  but  there  are  no  authentic  ac- 
counts to  confirm  this  statement."  Side  by  side  with 
the  French  trader  came  the  missionary  priest — first 
the  humble  Franciscan,  and  then  the  wary  disciple  of 
Loyola. .  Father  L'AUemant,  writing  of  the  Neuter  Na- 
tion from  St.  Mary's  Mission  in  1641,  says:     "Although 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


53 


many  of  our  French  in  that  quarte;  have  visited  this 
people  to  profit  by  their  furs  and  other  commodities,  we 
have  no  knowledge  of  any  who  have  been  there  to  preach 
the  gospel  except  Father  De  La  Roch  Daillon,  a  Recol- 
lect, who  passed  the  winter  there  in  the  year  1625." 
This  good  father  was  probably  the  first  European  in 
Western  New  York,  and  even  of  him  it  is  said  "  there  is 
no  evidence  that  he  ever  saw  the  Falls."  In  the  fall  of 
1640,  two  missionary  fathers,  Jean  de  Breboeuf  and  Jo- 
seph Marie  Chaumont,  found  their  way  to  some  part  of 
this  region,  but  if  they  saw  the  Falls  they  made  no  men- 
tion of  them.  In  1660,  Ducreux  wrote  a  work  called 
"  Historiae  Canadensis,"  and  noted  the  Falls  on  a  map ; 
but  the  probability  is  that  he  took  them  from  hearsay,  as 
he  makes  no  allusion  to  them  in  his  narrative. 


THE  EXPEDITION  OF  LA  SALLE. 

Robert  Cavalier  de  La  Salle,  a  native  of  France,  set 
out  for  the  new  world  in  1667.  Following  up  the  St. 
Lawrence,  he  explored  Lake  Ontario,  and  ascended  to 
Lake  Erie.  La  Salle  had  heard  from  the  Indians  of  the 
majestic  Ohio,  and  of  the  fertile  regions  beyond,  and  in 
the  mind  of  this  man  was  first  formed  the  project  of  uniting 
Canada  with  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  by  a  chain  of 
military  posts.  Presenting  his  plans  in  a  memorial  to  his 
government,  and  obtaining  a  commission  for  the  explora- 
tion of  the  Father  of  Waters,  he  set  out  on  his  expedition 
in  the  fall  of  1678,  with  a  numerous  band  of  followers, 
among  whom  was  Tonti,  the  Italian,  and  Father  Henne- 
pin. Touching  at  the  present  site  of  Fort  Niagara,  he 
there  established  a  trading  post.  Making  the  portage 
from  Lewiston  to  Cayuga  Creek,  on  the  American  side, 
the  whole  company  improved  the  opi  ortunity  of  viewing 


54 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


^,1   :.*f 


the  Falls.  Good  Father  Hennepin  was  quite  bowed 
down  beneath  their  grandeur.  He  is  confident  that  they 
are  above  six  hundred  feet  high,  and  describes  them  as 
"avast  and  prodigious  cadence  of  water,  which  falls 
down  after  a  surprising  and  astonishing  manner,  inso- 
much that  the  universe  does  not  afford  a  parallel."  As 
they  purposed  visiting  the  head  waters  of  the  Mississippi, 
it  was  necessary  first  to  build  a  suitable  vessel  to  navigate 
the  upper  lakes.  Accordingly  a  vessel  of  sixty  tons 
burden  was  built  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cayuga  Creek,  on 
the  American  side  of  the  river,  about  five  miles  above  the 
Falls.  The  vessel  was  named  the  "Griffin,"  in  allusion 
to  the  arms  of  the  Count  de  Frontenac,  the  early  patron 
of  La  Salle.  On  the  seventh  of  August,  1679,  amid  the 
firing  of  guns,  and  the  singing  of  the  Te  Deum^  the 
Griffin  lifted  her  sails  to  the  breeze — the  first  keel  to  enter 
the  waters  of  the  upper  lakes. 


i« 


THE  EXPEDITION  OF  DE  NONVILLE. 

AVhen  Champlain  came  out  from  France  in  1603,  he 
unwisely  made  the  Iroquois  the  deadly  enemies  of  the 
Frencli,  by  actively  co-operating  with  the  Hurons  against 
them.  This  course  of  policy  had  been  afterward  pur- 
sued as  a  tradition,  and  when  the  Marfjuis  de  Nonville 
succeeded  to  the  government  of  New  France,  in  1685,  he 
found  himself  involved  in  a  war  with  the  Iroquois,  in 
defense  of  his  Indian  allies  of  the  west.  He  at  once 
resolved  to  attack  the  Senecas  first,  and  to  build  a  fort  at 
Niagara,  where  La  Salle  had  left  a  trading  post.  "The 
commandants  of  the  French  ])osts  at  the  west  were 
ordered  to  rendezvous  at  Niagara,  with  their  troops,  and 
the  warrior-:  of  their  Indian  allies  were  in  that  quarter." 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


55 


The  French  army  set  out  from  Montreal  on  the  thir- 
teenth of  June,  and  reached  Irondequoit,  on  the  southern 
shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  on  the  twelfth  of  July,  Accord- 
ing to  previous  arrangements,  the  commandant  at  Niagara, 
with  the  re-enforcements  from  the  west,  reached  Ironde- 
quoit in  the  same  hour  with  the  division  of  De  Nonville. 

After  laying  waste  the  country  in  his  course,  and 
taking  formal  possession  of  some  of  the  principal  villages 
of  the  Senecas,  De  Nonville  dispatched  a  detachment  to 
Fort  Frontenac  (Kingston),  to  communicate  the  result  of 
the  expedition,  and  with  the  vest  of  his  force  set  out  for 
Niagara  on  the  twenty-sixth,  which  he  reached  on  the 
thirtieth.  "In  three  days,"  says  he,  "  the  army  had  so 
fortified  the  post  as  to  put  it  in  a  good  cond'vion  of  defense 
in  case  of  an  assault."  A  detachment  of  one  hundred 
men  left  here,  soon  fell  beneath  the  combined  attacks  of 
disease  and  the  Senecas,  and  the  post  was  again  deserted. 
De  Nonville  left  Niagara  on  the  second  of  August.  La 
Hontan  was  ordered  to  take  a  detachment  of  troops,  and 
accompany  the  Indian  allies  on  their  return  to  the  west. 
Plowing  up  from  the  fort  to  Lewiston,  they  carried 
their  canoes  over  the  portage  on  the  American  side, 
and  launched  them  again  at  Sclilosser.  Scarcely  had 
they  pushed  their  skiffs  from  the  shore,  when  a  "  thou- 
sand Iroquois "  appeared  on  the  river's  bank.  It  was 
under  the  terror  of  such  a  pursuit  that  La  Hontan,  with 
three  or  four  savages,  left  the  main  body  to  catch  a 
hurried  glimpse  of  that  "fearful  cataract"  which,  in  his 
trepidation,  he  describes  as  "  seven  or  eight  hundred  feet 
high,  and  half  a  league  broad." 

The  facts  of  He  Nonville's  expedition  are  woven  into 
W.  IL  C.  Ilosmer's  beautiful  poem  of  "  Yonnondio." 


56 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


If- 
I 


THE   TUSCARORAS 

The  Tuscarora  reservation  is  upon  a  mountain  ridge  in 
the  town  of  Lewiston,  about  nine  miles  northeast  of  the 
Falls.  Driven  from  their  original  seats  in  North  Carolina 
by  the  aggressions  of  the  whites,  they  migrated  to  New 
York  in  17 12,  and  became  merged  in  the  confederacy  of 
the  Iroquois.  In  the  revolutionary  war  a  part  of  them 
inclined  to  the  English,  and  a  part  remained  neutral. 
Such  portions  of  the  Tuscaroras  and  Oneidas  as  had 
been  allies  of  the  English  in  their  flight  from  the  total 
rout  of  Gen.  Sullivan,  embarked  in  canoes  upon  Oneida 
Lake,  and  down  the  Oswego  River,  coasting  along  up 
Lake  Ontario  to  the  British  garrison  at  Fort  Niagara.  In 
the  spring,  a  part  of  them  returned,  and  a  part  of  them 
took  possession  of  a  mile  square  upon  the  mountain 
ridge,  given  them  by  the  Senecas.  The  Holland  Com- 
pany afterward  donated  to  them  two  square  miles  adjoin- 
ing their  reservation,  and  in  1804  they  purchased  of  the 
company  4,329  acres,  the  aggregate  of  which  several 
tracts  is  their  present  possessions. 


ii 


NIAGARA  FRONTIER  IN  iSrz. 

President  Madison's  proclamation  of  war  threw  the 
whole  frontier  into  consternation.  The  pioneers,  unpro- 
tected by  a  sufficient  force,  and  dreading  the  treacherous 
warfare  of  the  British  Indians,  were  ready  to  abandon 
their  homes  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  enemy.  The 
strong  positions  of  the  Americans  were  Buffalo  and  Fort 
Niagara;  those  of  the  British  were  Fort  Erie  and  Fort 
George,  a  redoubt  opposite  Black  Rock,  a  battery  at 
Chi])pcvva,  another  below  the  Falls,  and  the  defenses  on 
Queenston  Heights. 


i 


ILLUSTRA  fEO 


57 


1.T  -^r  r^neralVan  Rensse- 

laer,  of  the  New  ^°'\~[-^^,,,,r.iU  of  October,  he 
garters  at  ^^-iston  O^*^  *  ;^,„„  ,„,  ,,Ue  pos- 
letermined  to  cross  the  rwer  ^^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^ 

session  of  Queenston  Heights  ^^^^^  ^„,^ed 

fS.     Shortly  after  the  occnV-^^p  ;„  attempting  to 

with  a  re-enforcemen   °f  «°°;;°j  P;,,,,  killed.     H^aid- 
,,Uy  them  after  their  fir  t  rep       ,         ^^.^  ^.  Mean- 

de-camp,  McDonald,  f«"' j'       ^  ^„„ther  re-enforcement, 
while,  the  British  ^^--"g 'f^';„  Rensselaer's  rear  division, 
;e  undisciplined  ->;;-  /f,",  ^i.er,  preferred  to  remain 
as  they  had  not  yet  ""''l'';.       ^^re  obliged  to  see  their 

tVere'they  were,  '^^'^^fJ^JZ  */-'•     "^'"^  T^^^! 
gallant  companions  sufter  campaign   of  18.2. 

chief  event   on  this  f^o^'\"''^  ,8,3,  General  Dearborn 
on  the  twenty-sever^t  of  U^,^J      ^^  ^^,.„,,  „ear 

captured  from  the  B-'tish,  1  ^.^^^_ 

Niagara,  at  the  mouth  o    thNg       ^^^^.^  ^^g^,,„  f,,ce 

"^  After  the  British   had  «;f '„^,i,,„  general  in  com- 

from  the  frontier,  M  C'^^^-jJ^^^ed  the  town  of  Newark, 
„andofFt.George,wanonyb  ^^  ^^^  ,„^,,„. 

Teaving  its  homeless  ^f^^\J  conquered  territory, 

!!  Buffalo.  Col.  l^«=<'"«'^';Xe  fort.  Tbus  it  was  that 
own  house  three  >»"-;';;;*«  Hver  before  day-break, 
-:Xtir^-:'Zvethefort.cal,edthe.ive- 


58 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE* 


mile  Meadows,  surprised  the  garrison,  and  made  them- 
selves masters  of  the  post.  Indian  scouts  left  the  main 
body,  like  bloodhounds,  to  scent  up  their  prey,  ^'he 
whole  frontier  was  a  scene  of  the  most  intense  suffering. 
Lewiston,  Niagara  Falls,  Black  Rock  and  Buffalo  fell  an 
easy  prey  to  the  destroyer.  All  fled  who  could,  the  militia 
frequently  leading  the  van.  It  was  a  motley  throng  flying 
from  the  torch  and  the  tomahawk  of  an  invading  foe, 
with  hardly  the  show  of  a  military  organization  to  cover 
the  retrea ;.  Buffalo  was  burned  to  the  ground  on  the 
thirtieth  of  December.  But  the  campaign  of  1814  was 
destined  to  retrieve,  as  far  as  possible,  the  fortunes  of 
this.  The  executive  appointed  Gen.  Brown  to  the  com- 
mand on  this  frontier,  associating  with  him  Winfield 
Scott,  Gaines,  Miller  and  others.  Then  followed  a  brill- 
iant succession  of  victories — the  capture  of  Fort  Erie, 
the  battle  of  Chippewa,  the  battle  of  Lundy's  Lane,  and 
finally,  the  greatest  of  all  victories,  peace. 


RETROCESSION-  OF  THE  FAILS, 

The  fact  that  in  historic  times,  even  within  the  memory 
of  man,  the  fall  has  sensibly  receded,  prompts  the  ([ues- 
tion,  how  far  has  this  recession  gone  .'*  At  what  point 
did  the  ledge  which  thus  continually  creeps  backwards 
begin  its  retrograde  course .?  To  minds  disciplined  in  such 
researches  the  answer  has  been  and  will  be,  at  the  pre- 
cipitous declivity  which  crosses  the  Niagara  from  Lewis- 
ton  on  the  American  to  Queenston  on  the  Canadian  side. 
Over  this  traverse  barrier  the  affluents  of  all  upper  lakes 
once  poured  their  waters,  and  here  the  work  of  erosion 
began.     The  dam,  moreover,  was  demonstrably  of  sufii- 


ILLUSTRATED      Ct  U  I  D  E. 


59 


n 

le 

Ln 


cient  height  to  cause  the  river  above  it  to  submerge  Goat 
Island  and  this  would  perfectly  account  for  the  finding 
by  Mr.  Hall,  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  and  others,  in  the  sand 
and  gravel  of  the  island,  the  same  fluviatile  shells  as  are 
now  found  in  the  Niagara  River  higher  up.  It  would  also 
account  for  those  deposits  along  the  sides  of  the  river, 
the  discovery  of  which  enabled  Lyell,  Hall  and  Ramsay 
to  reduce  to  demonstration  the  popular  belief  that  the 
Niagara  once  flowed  through  a  shallow  valley. 

The  physics  of  the  problem  of  excavation,  which  I 
made  clear  to  my  mind  before  quitting  Niagara,  are  re- 
vealed by  a  close  inspection  of  the  present  Horseshoe 
Fall.  Here  we  see  evidently  that  the  greatest  weight  of 
water  bends  over  the  very  apex  of  the  Horseshoe.  In  a 
passage  in  his  excellent  chapter  on  Niagara  Falls,  Mr. 
Hall  alludes  to  this  fact.  Here  we  have  the  most  copious 
and  the  most  violent  whirling  of  the  shattered  liquid ; 
here  the  most  powerful  eddies  recoil  against  the  shale. 
From  this  portion  of  the  fall,  indeed,  the  spray  some- 
times rises  without  solution  of  continuity  to  the  region  of 
clouds,  becoming  gradually  more  attenuated,  and  passing 
finally  through  the  condition  of  true  cloud  into  invisible 
vapor,  which  is  sometimes  re-precipitated  higher  up.  All 
the  phenomena  point  distinctly  to  the  center  of  the  river 
as  the  place  of  the  greatest  mechanical  energy,  and  from 
the  center  the  vigor  of  the  fall  gradually  dies  away 
toward  the  sides.  The  horseshoe  form,  with  the  con- 
cavity facing  downward,  is  an  obvious  and  necessary 
consetjuence  of  this  action.  Right  along  the  middle  of 
the  river  the  apex  of  the  curve  pushes  its  way  backward, 
cutting  along  the  center  a  deep  and  comparatively  nar- 
row groove,  and  draining  the  sides  as  it  passes  them. 


I 


6o 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


! 


It 


Hence  the  remarkable  discrepancy  between  the  widths 
of  the  Niagara  above  and  below  the  Horseshoe.  All 
along  its  course,  from  Lewiston  Heights  to  the  present 
position,  the  form  of  the  fall  was  probably  that  of  a 
horseshoe;  for  this  is  merely  the  expression  of  the 
greater  depth,  and  consequently  greater  excavat  ng 
power,  of  the  center  of  the  river.  The  gorge,  moreover, 
varies  in  width  as  the  depth  of  the  center  of  the  ancient 
river  varied,  being  narrowest  where  that  depth  was 
greatest. 

The  vast  comparative  erosive  energy  of  the  Horse- 
shoe Fall  comes  strikingly  into  view  when  it  and  the 
American  Fall  are  compared  together.  The  American 
branch  of  the  upper  river  is  cut  at  a  right  angle  by  the 
gorge  of  the  Niagara.  Here  the  Horseshoe  Fall  was  the 
real  excavator.  It  cut  the  rock  and  formed  the  precipice 
over  which  the  American  Fall  tumbles.  But  since  its 
formation  the  erosive  action  of  the  American  Fall  has 
been  almost  nil,  while  the  Horseshoe  has  cut  its  way  for 
five  hundred  yards  across  the  end  of  Goat  Island,  and 
is  now  doubling  back  to  excavate  a  channel  parallel  to 
the  length  of  the  island.  This  po'nt,  I  have  just  learned, 
has  not  escaped  the  acute  observation  of  Prof.  Ramsay. 
The  river  bends;  tlie  Horseshoe  immediately  accom- 
modates itself  to  the  bending,  and  will  follow  implicitly 
the  direction  of  the  deepest  water  in  the  upper  stream. 
The  flexil.'lity  of  the  gorge,  if  I  may  use  the  term,  is 
determined  by  the  flexibility  of  the  river  channel  above 
it.  Were  the  Niagara  above  the  Fall  sinuous,  the  gorge 
would  immediately  follow  its  sinuosities.  Once  sug- 
gested, no  doubt  geographers  will  be  able  to  point  out 
many  examples  of  this  action.  The  Zambesi  is  thought 
to  present  a  great  difficulty  to  the  erosion  theory,  because 


u  ■ . 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


6[ 


IS 
[11 
It 

a 

le 

>g 
It 

IS 


of  the  sinuosity  oi'  the  chasm  below  the  Victoria  Falls. 
But  assuming  the  basalt  to  be  of  tolerably  uniform  tex- 
ture, had  the  river  been  examined  before  the  formation 
of  this  sinuous  channel,  the  present  zigzag  course  of  the 
gorge  below  the  Fall  could,  I  am  pursuaded,  have  been 
predicted,  while  the  sounding  of  the  present  river  would 
enable  us  to  predict  the  course  to  be  pursued  by  the 
erosion  in  the  future. 

But  not  only  has  the  Niagara  River  cut  the  gorge — it 
has  carried  away  the  chips  of  its  own  workshop.  The 
shale  being  probably  crumbled  is  easily  carried  away. 
But  at  the  base  of  the  Fall  we  find  the  huge  boulders 
already  described,  and  by  some  means  or  other  these  are 
removed  down  the  river.  The  ice  which  fills  the  gorge 
in  winter,  and  which  grapples  with  the  boulders,  has  been 
regarded  as  the  transporting  agent.  Probably  it  is  so  to 
some  extent.  But  erosion  acts  without  ceasing  on  the 
abutting  points  of  the  boulder,  thus  withdrawing  their 
support  and  urging  tliem  down  the  river.  Solution  also 
does  its  portion  of  the  work.  That  solid  matter  is  carried 
down  is  proved  by  the  difference  of  depth  between  the 
Niagara  River  and  Lake  Ontario,  where  the  river  enters 
it.  The  depth  falls  from  seventy-two  feet  to  twenty  feet, 
in  consequence  of  the  deposition  of  solid  matter  caused 
by  the  diminished  motion  of  the  river.  Near  lU'^  Tjouth 
of  the  gorge  at  Queenston,  the  depth,  according  to  the 
Admiralty  Chart,  is  i8o  feet;  well  within  the  gorge  it  is 
132  feet. 

In  conclusion  we  may  say  a  word  regarding  the  proxi- 
mate future  of  Niagara  At  the  rate  of  excavation 
assigned  to  it  by  Sir  Charles  Lycll,  namely,  a  foot  a  year, 
five  thousand  years  or  so  will  carry  the  Horseshoe  Fall 
far  higher  than  Goat  Island.     As  the  gorge  recedes  it  will 


M'tr,    ' 


62 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


drain,  as  it  has  hitherto  done,  the  banks  right  and  left  of 
it,  thi  3  leaving  nearly  a  level  terrace  between  Goat 
Island  and  the  edge  of  the  gorge.  Higlier  up  it  will 
totally  drain  the  American  branch  of  the  river,  the  chan- 
nel of  which  will  in  due  time  become  cultivable  land. 
The  American  Fall  will  then  be  transformed  into  a  dry 
precipice,  forming  a  simple  continuation  of  the  cliffy 
boundary  of  the  Niagara.  At  the  place  occupied  by  the 
Fall  at  this  moment  we  shall  have  the  gorge  inclosing  a 
right  angle,  a  secor.^  whirlpool  being  the  consequence  of 
this.  To  those  who  visit  Niagara  a  few  milleniums  hence 
I  leave  the  verification  of  this  prediction.  All  that  can  be 
said  is,  that  if  the  causes  now  in  action  continue  to  act, 
it  will  prove  itself  literally  true.* 


HACK  ME  2/  AND  GUIDES. 

Complaints  are  frequently  made  by  strangers  of  being 
outrageously  ^«/Ay/  by  hackmen  and  guides.  This  com- 
plaint is  a  general  one,  and  there  is  no  reason  for  making 
it  with  peculiar  emphasis  at  Niagara.  The  experienced 
tourist  will  always  settle  the  price  beforehand,  and  so  avoid 
any  unpleasant  scene  at  the  end  of  his  trip.  This  pre- 
caution, sc  regularly  observed  in  all  other  matters,  should 
not  be  omitted  in  this :  the  price  of  a  thing  should  be 
known  before  we  engage  to  pay  for  it.  The  usual  charge 
for  carriages  is  two  dollars  an  hour.  The  compensation 
for  the  service  of  guides  is  less  definitely  fixed.  Other 
complaints  of  a  less  specific  character  are  also  often  made, 
such  as,  "  a  quarter  is  demanded  at  every  corner,"  etc. 
The  truth  is,  no  more  money  is  asked  here  than  else- 

♦The  article  on  the  "Retrocession  of  the  Falls,"  was  written  by  Professor 
Tyndall,  after  a  visit  to  this  place. 


i 


Ill 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE.  6;^ 

where  for  an  equal,  or  perhaps  less  amount  of  value  re- 
ceived ;  but  the  greater  part  of  the  world  are  so  much 
accustomed  to  consider  a  tangible  material  return  as  the 
only  form  of  the  ^uid  pro  quo,  that  they  cannot  under- 
stand how  so  gross  an  affair  as  money  should  enter  into 
considerations  of  this  kind,  and  consequently  regret  its 
expenditures  the  more  keenly. 


tt. 


FRANCIS  ABBOTT,  THE  HERMIT  OF  NIAGARA. 

The  history  of  this  singular  individual  has  been  given 
in  various  forms,  from  the  hurried  comp'lation  of  a 
guide-book  to  the  extravagance  of  a  romance.  We  pre- 
sent you  with  what  is  known  of  him  by  all  who  lived  in 
the  village  at  the  time  of  his  residing  here. 

His  first  appearance  at  Niagara  was  in  che  afternoon  of 
June  1 8,  1839.  He  Wc's  a  young  man  then,  tall  and  well- 
formed,  but  emaciated  ana  haggard;  of  an  easy  and 
gentlemanly  deportment,  but  sufficiently  eccentric  in 
appearance  to  arrest  a  stranger's  gaze. 

Clad  in  a  long  flowing  robe  of  brown,  and  carrying 
under  his  arm  a  roll  of  blankets,  a  book,  portfolio,  and 
flute,  he  proceeded  to  a  small,  retired  inn,  where  he  en- 
gaged a  room  for  a  week,  stipulating,  however,  that  the 
room  was  to  be,  for  the  time,  exclusively  his,  rnd  that 
only  2i  part  of  his  food  was  to  be  prepared  by  the  family. 
Soon  after,  he  visited  the  village  library,  entered  his 
name,  and  drew  books.  He  also  purchased  a  violin. 
At  the  expiration  of  a  week  he  returned  to  the  library, 
where,  falling  into  conversation,  he  spoke  with  much  en- 
thusiasm on  the  subject  of  the  Falls,  and  expressed  his 
intention  of  remaining  some  time  longer. 


64 


illustrate:  ( .     GUIDE. 


Shortly  afterward  he  asked  permission  of  the  proprie- 
tor of  these  islands  to  erect  a  cabin  on  Moss  Island, 
that  he  might  /ivv:  in  greater  seclusion  than  the  village 
afforded  him.  Failing  in  his  request,  he  took  up  his 
abode  in  a  part  of  a  small  log-house,  then  standing  near 
the  head  of  Goat  Island.  Here  for  nearly  two  years  he 
continued  to  live,  with  no  companion  but  his  dog,  his 
books  and  his  music — blameless  but  almost  unknown. 
On  this  island,  at  hours  when  it  was  unfrequented  by 
others,  he  delighted  to  roam,  heedless,  if  not  oblivious  of 
danger.  At  that  time  a  stick  of  timber  about  eight 
inches  square  extended  from  Terrapin  Bridge  eight  feet 
beyond  the  precipice.  On  this  he  has  been  seen  at 
almost  all  hours  of  the  night,  pacing  to  and  fro,  beneath 
the  moonlight,  without  the  slightest  apparent  tremor  of 
nerve  or  hesitancy  of  step.  Sometimes  he  might  be 
seen  sitting  carelessly  on  the  extreme  end  of  the  timber 
— sometimes  hanging  beneath  it  by  his  hands  and.  feet. 
Although  exquisitely  sensitive  in  his  social  habits,  he 
seems  to  have  been  without  an  apprehension  of  danger. 
After  residing  on  Goat  Island  two  winters,  he  crossed 
Bath  Island  Bridge,  and  built  him  a  rude  cabin  of  boards 
at  Point  View,  near  the  American  Fall.  Although 
brought  into  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  villagers, 
he  held  but  little  intercourse  with  them ;  sometimes, 
indeed,  refusing  to  break  silence  by  oral  communication. 
However,  he  was  at  times  extremely  affable  to  all,  easily 
drawn  into  conversation,  and  supporting  it  with  a  regard 
to  conventionalism,  and  a  grace  and  accuracy  of  expres- 
sion that  threw  a  charm  over  the  most  trivial  subject  of 
remark. 

The  late  Judge  De  Veaux  was  perhaps  the  only  person 
with  whom  he  was  really  familiar.     With  him  he  would 


oft< 

of 

on 

the 
to 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


65 


often  interchange  arguments,  by  the  hour,  on  some  point 

of  theology — his  favorite  topic  of  discussion.     His  views 

on  this  subject  were  by  no  means  stable ;   but  as  far  as 

they  absumed  a  definite  form  they  seemed  nearly  akin 

to  those  held   by  the  Society  of  Friends.     But  it  was 

n    h       brilliant    reminiscences   of    foreign    lands    and 

s  ihat  he  was  especially  gloria  ..,.,.      He  had  wan- 

'.    r  iiong  the  ruins  of  Asia  anc     "■.'.ce,  and  studied 

trophies  of  art  in  the  celebrated  picture  galleries  of 


he 
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Js 

;h 

s, 


X 


Of  music  he  was  passionately  fond,  and  played  his  own 
compositions,  in  the  opinion  of  some,  with  exquisite 
taste ;  while  others  declare  his  execution  to  have  been 
only  mediocre,  if  not  absolutely  inferior. 

Every  day,  after  his  removal  to  the  main-land,  it  was 
his  custom  to  descend  the  ferry  stairs  to  bathe  in 
the  river  below;  and  it  was  while  thus  engaged  that  he 
was  accidentally  drowned,  June  10,  1841.  Ten  days 
afterward  his  body  was  found  at  the  outlet  of  the  river, 
and  brought  back  to  the  village,  where  it  was  com- 
mitted to  the  earth  in  sight  of  the  scenes  he  so  much 
loved. 

After  his  decease  a  number  of  citizens  repaired  to  his 
cabin  to  take  charge  of  his  effects.  Little,  however,  was 
to  be  found  :  his  faithful  dog  guard' d  the  door;  his  cat 
lay  on  the  lounge,  and  his  books  and  music  were  scat- 
tered around  the  room.  Writing  was  sought  for  in  vain. 
It  is  said,  notwithstanding,  that  he  wrote  much,  but  always 
in  Latin,  and  committed  his  productions  to  the  flames 
almost  as  soon  as  composed. 

Members  of  his  family  have,  since  his  death,  visited 
Niagara,  from  whom  we  learn  only  that  Francis  was  a 
son  of  the  late  John  Abbott,  of  Plymouth,  England,  a 


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66 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE, 


member  of  the  Society  of  Friends,  and  that  in  his  youth 
he  alternated  the  most  indefatigable  devotion  to  his 
studies  with  the  most  excessive  dissipations  o^  a  gay 
metropolis. 

We  have  given  only  what  we  know  of  his  life.  There 
still  remains  a  wide  margin  which  each  may  fill  up  as  best 
suits  himself,  with  the  speculations  of  romance. 

I  NCI  DEN  TS  AND  CASUAL  TIES. 

The  number  of  victims  whom  carelessness  or  folly  has 
sent  over  the  Falls  is  much  larger  than  an  ancient  Indian 
tradition*  (which  says  the  spirit  of  the  Cataract  claims 
annually  two  victims)  would  lead  us  to  suppose. 

In  1810  the  boat  Independence^  laden  with  salt,  filled 
and  sunk  while  crossing  to  Chippewa;  the  captain  and 
two  of  the  crew  went  over  the  Falls. 

In  182 1  two  men  in  a  scow  were  drawn  into  the  current 
and  went  over. 

In  1825  two  men  and  boat,  from  Grand  Island,  went 
over;  in  the  same  year  three  men  in  three  different 
canoes  went  over. 

In  1841  two  men  engaged  in  smuggling — boat  capsized 
in  the  current.  One  was  found  dead  on  Grass  Island,  the 
other  went  over  the  Falls.  Also,  two  men  in  a  scow, 
boatmg  sand,  went  over. 

In  1847  a  boy,  aged  14,  attempting  to  row  across  was 
drawn  into  the  current  and  went  over. 

In  1848  a  man  was  seen  to  pass  under  Goat  Island 
Bridge,  close  to  the  shore,  and  was  heard  distinctly  to 
ask,  "Can  I  be  saved.'  "  Soon  after  his  boat  upset  and 
he  went  over;  he  was  never  seen  afterward.  In  the  same 
year  two  children,  a  boy  and  a  girl,  were  playing  in  a  r>1<ifT 
which  swung  off  from  the  shore.     As  they  were  rapidly 


1 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


67 


|th 

lis 
Ire 

St 


X 


I 


passing  to  the  fatal  plunge,  the  frantic  mother  rushed  into 
the  stream  and  succeeded  in  rescuing  the  girl,  the  boy 
sitting  in  the  bottom  of  the  skiff,  with  a  hand  on  each 
side,  went  over. 

The  next  incident  we  shall  relate  occurred  on  the  nine- 
teenth of  July,  1853,  and  was  witnessed  by  thousands  of 
horror-stricken  spectators.  Early  in  the  morning  a  man 
was  discovered  in  the  middle  of  the  American  rapids 
about  thirty  rods  below  Goat  Island  Bridge.  He  was 
clinging  to  a  log  which  had  lodged  against  a  rock ;  he 
proved  to  be  a  Mr.  Avery,  who,  in  attempting  to  cross 
the  river  above,  had  been  drawn  into  the  rapids;  his 
boat  is  supposed  to  have  struck  the  log  and  been  over- 
turned and  by  extraordinary  good  fortune  he  had  been 
enabled  to  cling  to  the  log.  A  large  crowd  soon  gathered 
on  the  shore  and  bridge.  A  sign  painted  in  large  letters 
"  We  will  save  you  "  was  fastened  to  a  building  that  the 
reading  might  cheer  and  encourage  him.  Boats  and 
ropes  were  provided.  The  first  boat  filled  and  sunk  just 
before  reaching  him.  The  next,  a  life-boat  which  had 
been  procured  from  Buffiiilo,  reached  the  log,  was  dashed 
off  by  the  re-acting  waters  and  sank  beside  him.  Another 
light  clinker-boat  reached  him  just  right,  but  in  some 
unaccountable  mnaner,  the  rope  got  caught  between  the 
rock  and  the  log.  It  was  impossible  to  loosen  it ;  poor 
Avery  tugged  and  worked  at  it  with  the  strength  of 
despair;  the  citizens  above  pulled  at  the  rope  until  it 
brokg.  By  this  time  a  raft  had  been  constructed  with  a 
strong  cask  attached  to  each  corner  and  ropes  so 
arranged  that  Avery  might  tie  himself  to  it.  It  was 
lowered  and  reached  him  safely.  He  got  on  and  seized 
the  ropes;  the  rescuers  moved  across  the  lower  part  of 
Bath  Island,  drawing  in  the  rope,  and  the  raft  swinging 


68 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


easily  toward  Goat  Island.  But  when  it  reached  the 
head  of  Chapin's  Island  the  rope  got  caught  in  the  rocks 
and  all  efforts  to  loosen  it  were  ineffectual.  Another 
boat  was  launched  and  let  down  the  stream ;  it  reached 
the  raft  all  right,  and  Avery,  in  his  eagerness  to  seize  it, 
dropped  the  ropes  he  had  been  holding,  stepped  to  the 
top  of  the  raft  with  his  hands  extended  to  catch  the  boat, 
when  the  former  seemed  by  his  weight  to  be  settled  in 
the  water,  and  just  missing  his  hold,  he  was  swept  into 
the  rapids,  went  down  the  north  side  of  Chapin's  Island, 
and  almost  in  reach  of  it,  in  water  so  shallow  that  he 
rose  to  his  feet,  threw  up  his  hands  in  despair,  fell  back- 
ward and  went  over  the  Fall,  after  a  terrific  struggle  with 
death  which  lasted  eighteen  hours. 

In  August,  1844,  a  gentleman  was  washed  off  a  rock 
near  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  He  had  ventured  to  step 
onto  this  rock  in  direct  opposition  to  the  remonstrances 
of  the  guide. 

In  1846  another  fell  forty  feet  from  a  rock  below  the 
Cave  of  the  Winds  ant        .s  instantly  killed. 

Perhaps  the  saddest  I'ate  of  all  was  that  which  befell 
two  estimable  young  people,  residents  of  the  Falls.  On 
Monday,  August  9,  1875,  Miss  Lottie  Philpott,  with  two 
brothers,  a  sister-in-law,  and  Mr.  Ethelbert  Parsons,  de- 
scended the  Eiddle  staircase,  and  with  merry  laughter, 
passed  through  the  Cave  of  the  Winds  and  climbed  over 
the  rocks  toward  the  American  Fall.  The  members  of 
the  party  gave  themselves  up  to  the  keen  enjoyment  of 
bathing  in  the  sheltered  eddies  and  in  the  lighter  currents 
that  sweep  between  and  over  the  massive  rocks  below. 
With  a  rash,  venturesome  spirit.  Miss  Lottie  chose  one  of 
the  most  dangerous  currents  near  in  which  to  bathe. 
Mr.  Parsons,  noticing  her  dangerous  position,  descended 


ILLUSTRATED    GUIDE. 


69 


■* 


to  her  side,  and  while  seeking  for  a  firm  foothold  for  him- 
self to  guard  against  any  possible  mishap  to  either,  the 
lady  lost  her  footing  and  fell.  Mr.  Parsons  grasped  for 
her,  but  failing  to  catch  her  he  sprang  into  the  current 
and  both  weie  carried  down  the  stream  and  over  a  fall 
some  ten  or  twelve  feet  high.  Miss  Lottie  found  a  foot- 
ing  in  the  eddy  below  and  was  seen  standing  in  the 
seething  waters  leaning  against  a  huge  boulder.  It  is  not 
known  whether  she  could  have  maintained  her  footing 
here,  or  not,  long  enough  for  assistance  to  have  been 
rendered  by  those  on  the  rocks  nearer  the  shore.  If  she 
could,  it  is  thought  she  might  have  been  saved.  When 
Mr.  Parsons  rose  to  the  surface  after  his  plunge  over  the 
little  fall  he  was  seen  to  swim  towards  the  lady,  put  his 
arm  around  her  waist,  and  together,  both  swimming 
strongly,  they  struck  out  for  the  rocks  on  the  other  side, 
which,  could  they  have  reached,  would  have  afforded  a 
vantage  ground  from  which  successful  efforts  could  have 
been  made  to  reach  a  place  of  safety.  Desperately  the 
brave  man  labored  to  save  her  for  whom  he  had  ventured 
his  life,  but  the  remorseless  current  rapidly  carried  them 
down  and  out  from  shore,  further  and  further,  into  the 
river,  he  swimming  on  his  back  and  supporting  her  until 
suddenly  they  were  parted.  Those  who  were  watching 
the  scene,  unable  to  render  any  assistance,  say  that  Miss 
Lottie,  who  had  one  hand  on  his  shoulder  and  evidently 
felt  that  both  could  not  be  saved,  and  that  he  might  save 
himself  if  not  burthened  with  her,  suddenly  pushed  him 
from  her,  and,  throwing  up  her  arms  despairingly  above 
her  head,  sank  below  the  surface  and  disappeared  from 
sight.  Quick  as  thought  the  noble  man  turned  and  dived 
for  the  sinking  girl.  A  cloud  of  mist  hid  the  scene  of 
disaster  for  a  moment  and  when  the  horror-stricken  wit- 


70 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


nesses  next  looked  for  their  loved  ones  the  angry  waters 
gave  no  sign  of  the  tragedy  just  enacted.  Both  bodies 
were  subsequently  recovered  at  the  Whirlpool. 

Since  that  time  Niagara  has  had  several  victims,  two  of 
which  were  unmistakably  suicides ;  the  last  being  a  young 
man,  unknown,  respectably  dressed,  who,  after  paying  his 
fare  at  the  Prospect  Park  gate  and  passing  a  few  rods 
down  the  bank  of  the  river,  deliberately  waded  in  and 
swam  towards  the  awful  brink.  He  was  supposed  to  be  a 
school-teacher,  as  from  his  description  a  man  said  he 
believed  it  was  his  brother  who  had  left  home  a  few  days 
before. 

The  above  list  is  but  a  partial  one  of  known  victims. 
The  number  of  those  unfortunates  who  have  taken  the 
fatal  plunge  at  night,  unseen  save  by  the  "  Eye  that 
sleepetli  not,"  can  never  be  ascertained. 

Many  have  stated  that  when  looking  down  from  the 
brink  into  the  tremendous  chasm,  an  almost  irresistible 
impulse  beset  them  to  leap  into  the  fearful  flood.  We 
have  never  heard  this  explained,  and  why  such  a  feeling 
should  i)ossess  the  mind  is  beyond  our  comprehension, 
though  certain  it  is  that  such  a  feeling  does  exist  in  the 
minds  of  many. 


THE   VILLAGE  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS, 

The  village  of  Niagara  Falls  contains  a  population  of 
3,700.  It  boasts  of  several  hotels,  large  stores,  churches 
to  the  number  of  six  (one  unfinished),  and  has  one  of  the 
largest  paper  mills  in  the  State,  a  pulp  mill,  cabinet  and 
carpenter  shops,  blacksmiths,  wheelwrights,  and  every- 
thing in  fact  that  a  much  larger  place  often  lacks. 

The  churches,  which  should  come  first  on  the  list, 
are  the  Baptist,  Episcopal,  Methodist,  Presbyterian  and 


trs 
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ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE. 


71 


Roman  Catholic.  Of  these  the  oldest  is  the  Presbyterian, 
and  the  latest,  finished  and  occupied,  the  Methodist, 
although  the  new  building,  not  yet  completed,  of  the 
Episcopalians,  is  the  last.  Of  the  hotels,  suffice  it  to  say 
they  are  quite  up  to  the  mark  and  range  from  a  first-class 
hotel  to  a  third  or  fourth  rate,  and  their  charges  per  diem 
vary  from  ^2.00  to  ^4-50,  The  principal  of  these  hotels 
are  to  be  found  on  Main  street,  viz.,  the  Cataract  and 
International.  The  Spencer  House,  directly  opposite  the 
N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  R.  R.  R.  Depot,  on  Falls  street,  and  the 
Niagara  House,  on  Main  street,  are  the  only  first-class 
hotels  open  all  the  year  round.  The  main  business  street 
of  the  village  is  Falls  street,  down  which  the  visitor  goes 
on  his  way  to  the  great  cataract ;  on  this  street  may  be 
found  hardware,  dry  goods,  and  almost  all  the  business  of 
the  place;  the  post-office  is  located  about  the  center  of 
the  street,  and  at  its  foot  may  be  seen  the  new  Soldiers' 
Monument. 

In  summer  time  the  streets  present  quite  an  animated 
appearance ;  they  are  broad  and  well  kept,  and  abound 
in  fine  shade  trees ;  especially  may  this  be  said  of  First 
street,  on  which  four  of  the  six  churches  are  situated  in 
close  proximity  to  each  other.  Buffalo  street  contains 
some  fine  residences ;  on  this  street  may  be  seen  the 
homes  of  the  Porter  family,  the  proprietors  of  Goat  Island. 
The  residence  of  the  late  Col.  Porter,  and  also  that  of  his 
son,  stand  side  by  side  on  this  street. 

There  are  two  railway  depots :  one  is  the  N.  Y.  C.  & 
H.  R.  R.  R.,  on  Falls  street;  the  other,  the  Erie,  is  some 
half-mile  further,  on  Erie  street.  Carriages  in  abundance 
may  be  procured  at  either  of  these  depots  or  at  the  hotels. 
Omnibusses  run  from  each  hotel,  with  porters,  to  each 
train,  arriving  or  departing.      Should   the   visitor   have 


w 


72 


ILLUSTRATED     GUIDE, 


any  objection  to  staying  at  a  hotel,  private  boarding 
houses  abound,  whose  charges  vary  from  $6.00  to  $10.00 
per  week. 

As  a  whole,  the  charge  for  livi-ng  at  the  Falls  will  com- 
pare very  favorably  with  any  other  watering  place  in  the 
United  States,  In  addition  to  the  above  hotels,  there 
are,  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river,  the  Clifton  House, 
Prospect  House,  Front  View  House  and  Victoria  Hall 
Hotel. 


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